By Sherwin Williams
Clean-up procedures depend largely on the paint you use. Here are guidelines for cleaning up. To maximize your investment on painting tools, make sure to clean them right after use.
Latex Paints
· Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with water.
· Clean brushes, rollers and other tools with soap and water.
· After cleaning, flush spraying equipment with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. Follow manufacturer's safety recommendations when using mineral spirits.
Oil/Alkyd Paints
· Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
· Oil-based (alkyd) paint must be removed from tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
· Pour the cleaning material into a clean bucket and rinse brushes and rollers well.
· When done, allow the solids to settle out of the cleaner, then strain the liquid back into the original container for reuse.
· Allow the settled solids to air-dry away from children, pets or open flames, then dispose of the container in the trash.
Brushes should be kept in their original wrapper or paper-wrapped in a manner that retains their original shape before storing.
Protect Your Paint Job
Wait at least two weeks before washing the newly painted surface. After that, clean with a mild household detergent and a soft cloth or sponge.
Tips To Protect The Environment
Try to buy only the amount of paint you need so there is little to dispose of when you complete your project. If you do have leftovers, follow these guidelines:
· Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep it fresh, place a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid. Pound down the lid securely.
· Check with your local waste collector to see if it accepts dried latex paint. If so, place the open can in an airy spot away from children and pets. When the paint is completely dry, put it in the trash.
· Or, seal oil/alkyd paints in the can and store them safely away from heat sources until you can take them to an appropriate waste-disposal site, such as community paint/stain collection events where you can safely dispose of leftover paints.
· Never pour stain down a drain, into a storm sewer or anywhere else that might contaminate the environment.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Painting - Exterior
By Sherwin Williams
Getting Ready to Paint
Before you paint your entire house, it's a good idea to test the paint you plan to use. Prepare, prime (if necessary) and paint an inconspicuous spot. Wait the appropriate drying time as specified on the label, and then look for any adhesion or compatibility problems before proceeding with a full-scale application.
Use a paint scraper, wire brush, sandpaper or power washer to remove all surface contamination, such as oil, grease, loose paint, dirt, foreign matter, rust, mold, mildew or mortar efflorescence. Make sure that cracks and imperfections are patched or caulked.
Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in U.S.) or contact your local health authority.
Don't paint immediately after rain (or if rain is predicted), during foggy weather or when the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (unless you're using products specifically designed for these conditions).
In addition to friendly expert advice, you can find the right brushes, rollers, ladders, sprayers, caulk and more at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.
Painting Order
It may seem obvious, but when you're painting outside, you want to start at the top and work down. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.
Ceilings (under eaves, porch and overhang ceilings)
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall.
· Work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Walls
· Use a roller or brush (depending on the surface).
· Start at the top of the wall and work horizontally on horizontal siding and vertically on vertical siding.
Trim
· Paint all molding, shutters, windows and doors.
Floor (porches and decks)
· Start in a corner diagonally opposite the exit.
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall.
· Start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Painting Techniques
Using proper painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you want.
Using a Brush
1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly - don't bear hard on the brush.
Using a Roller
1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
2. Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll. View an instructional movie.
4. For horizontal or vertical siding: Follow the direction of the siding and cover about four linear feet at a time (with a nine-inch roller cover).
Painting Double-Hung Windows
1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.
2. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.
3. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.
Getting Ready to Paint
Before you paint your entire house, it's a good idea to test the paint you plan to use. Prepare, prime (if necessary) and paint an inconspicuous spot. Wait the appropriate drying time as specified on the label, and then look for any adhesion or compatibility problems before proceeding with a full-scale application.
Use a paint scraper, wire brush, sandpaper or power washer to remove all surface contamination, such as oil, grease, loose paint, dirt, foreign matter, rust, mold, mildew or mortar efflorescence. Make sure that cracks and imperfections are patched or caulked.
Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in U.S.) or contact your local health authority.
Don't paint immediately after rain (or if rain is predicted), during foggy weather or when the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (unless you're using products specifically designed for these conditions).
In addition to friendly expert advice, you can find the right brushes, rollers, ladders, sprayers, caulk and more at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.
Painting Order
It may seem obvious, but when you're painting outside, you want to start at the top and work down. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.
Ceilings (under eaves, porch and overhang ceilings)
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall.
· Work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Walls
· Use a roller or brush (depending on the surface).
· Start at the top of the wall and work horizontally on horizontal siding and vertically on vertical siding.
Trim
· Paint all molding, shutters, windows and doors.
Floor (porches and decks)
· Start in a corner diagonally opposite the exit.
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall.
· Start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Painting Techniques
Using proper painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you want.
Using a Brush
1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly - don't bear hard on the brush.
Using a Roller
1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
2. Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll. View an instructional movie.
4. For horizontal or vertical siding: Follow the direction of the siding and cover about four linear feet at a time (with a nine-inch roller cover).
Painting Double-Hung Windows
1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.
2. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.
3. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Preparing
By Sherwin Williams
Primer - the first step toward a lasting finish. To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.
Sherwin-Williams primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:
· Covers stains and discoloration
· Anchors the finish coat so it "sticks" better
· Ensures a rich shine for enamels
· Hides surface marks and darker colors
· Fills and levels out uneven surfaces
· Seals porous surfaces
In general, the only time a primer is not needed is if you're re-painting a surface that's in good condition.
Surface Preparation
Preparation. It's the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry.
Don't paint immediately after rain (or if rain is predicted), during foggy weather or when the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (unless you're using products specifically designed for these conditions).
Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.
Testing
Before you paint your entire house, it's a good idea to test the paint you plan to use. Prepare, prime (if necessary) and paint an inconspicuous spot. Wait the appropriate drying time as specified on the label, and then look for any adhesion or compatibility problems before proceeding with a full-scale application.
Remove all surface contamination by washing with ProClean Professional® Prep Wash Concentrated Cleaner or other appropriate cleaner, rinse thoroughly and allow drying. Scrape and sand peeled or checked paint to a sound surface. Sand glossy surfaces dull. Seal stains (such as water, smoke, ink, pencil or grease stains) with PrepRite® ProBlock® Primer Sealer.
Not Previously Painted or Exposed to Original Surface
Surfaces that have not been previously painted or that are exposed down to the original surface should be handled as follows:
Surface Type
Preparation Steps
Wood, Plywood, Composition Board
· Sand any exposed wood to a fresh surface.
· Patch all holes and imperfections with a wood filler or putty and sand smooth.
· All patched areas must be primed.
Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block
· All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier's recommendations - usually about 30 days.
· Remove all form release and curing agents.
· Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface.
· If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with Loxon® Acrylic Primer.
· Cracks, voids, and other holes should be repaired with ConSeal™ Patch or ConSeal™ Sealant.
Aluminum And Galvanized Steel
· Wash with a ProClean Professional® Prep Wash Concentrated Cleaner to remove any oil, grease or other surface contamination.
· All corrosion must be removed with sandpaper, steel wool or other abrading method.
Steel
· Rust and mill scale must be removed using sandpaper, steel wool or other abrading method.
· Bare steel must be primed the same day as cleaned.
Vinyl Siding
· Clean the surface thoroughly by scrubbing with warm, soapy water.
· Rinse thoroughly.
· Do not paint vinyl siding with any color darker than the original color.
· Painting with darker colors may cause the siding to warp.
Choosing a Primer
Sherwin-Williams make it easy to get the right primer for any surface you want to paint.
· For a versatile acrylic latex primer that provides the best coverage on a variety of surfaces, such as wood and plywood, try our A-100® Exterior Latex Wood Primer. It's usable down to 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
· Both our A-100® Exterior Stain Blocking Oil Primer and our WeatherPerfect® Exterior Stain Blocking Primer are perfect for sealing water, tannin and other stains on exterior wood and hardboard siding.
· For steel, aluminum or galvanized metals, our All Surface Enamel Primers work well for both interior and exterior applications.
· For interior and exterior masonry, our Loxon® Conditioner penetrates, seals and bonds light chalk to the surface.
· Our Loxon® Exterior Acrylic Masonry Primer is engineered for exterior, above-grade masonry surfaces (including concrete, concrete block, brick and stucco) requiring a high performance primer.
Primer - the first step toward a lasting finish. To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.
Sherwin-Williams primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:
· Covers stains and discoloration
· Anchors the finish coat so it "sticks" better
· Ensures a rich shine for enamels
· Hides surface marks and darker colors
· Fills and levels out uneven surfaces
· Seals porous surfaces
In general, the only time a primer is not needed is if you're re-painting a surface that's in good condition.
Surface Preparation
Preparation. It's the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry.
Don't paint immediately after rain (or if rain is predicted), during foggy weather or when the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (unless you're using products specifically designed for these conditions).
Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.
Testing
Before you paint your entire house, it's a good idea to test the paint you plan to use. Prepare, prime (if necessary) and paint an inconspicuous spot. Wait the appropriate drying time as specified on the label, and then look for any adhesion or compatibility problems before proceeding with a full-scale application.
Remove all surface contamination by washing with ProClean Professional® Prep Wash Concentrated Cleaner or other appropriate cleaner, rinse thoroughly and allow drying. Scrape and sand peeled or checked paint to a sound surface. Sand glossy surfaces dull. Seal stains (such as water, smoke, ink, pencil or grease stains) with PrepRite® ProBlock® Primer Sealer.
Not Previously Painted or Exposed to Original Surface
Surfaces that have not been previously painted or that are exposed down to the original surface should be handled as follows:
Surface Type
Preparation Steps
Wood, Plywood, Composition Board
· Sand any exposed wood to a fresh surface.
· Patch all holes and imperfections with a wood filler or putty and sand smooth.
· All patched areas must be primed.
Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block
· All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier's recommendations - usually about 30 days.
· Remove all form release and curing agents.
· Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface.
· If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with Loxon® Acrylic Primer.
· Cracks, voids, and other holes should be repaired with ConSeal™ Patch or ConSeal™ Sealant.
Aluminum And Galvanized Steel
· Wash with a ProClean Professional® Prep Wash Concentrated Cleaner to remove any oil, grease or other surface contamination.
· All corrosion must be removed with sandpaper, steel wool or other abrading method.
Steel
· Rust and mill scale must be removed using sandpaper, steel wool or other abrading method.
· Bare steel must be primed the same day as cleaned.
Vinyl Siding
· Clean the surface thoroughly by scrubbing with warm, soapy water.
· Rinse thoroughly.
· Do not paint vinyl siding with any color darker than the original color.
· Painting with darker colors may cause the siding to warp.
Choosing a Primer
Sherwin-Williams make it easy to get the right primer for any surface you want to paint.
· For a versatile acrylic latex primer that provides the best coverage on a variety of surfaces, such as wood and plywood, try our A-100® Exterior Latex Wood Primer. It's usable down to 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
· Both our A-100® Exterior Stain Blocking Oil Primer and our WeatherPerfect® Exterior Stain Blocking Primer are perfect for sealing water, tannin and other stains on exterior wood and hardboard siding.
· For steel, aluminum or galvanized metals, our All Surface Enamel Primers work well for both interior and exterior applications.
· For interior and exterior masonry, our Loxon® Conditioner penetrates, seals and bonds light chalk to the surface.
· Our Loxon® Exterior Acrylic Masonry Primer is engineered for exterior, above-grade masonry surfaces (including concrete, concrete block, brick and stucco) requiring a high performance primer.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Planning - Exterior
By Sherwin Williams
A fresh coat of paint is the most inexpensive way to freshen up and protect your home's exterior. Sherwin-Williams has paints for wood, aluminum, vinyl, stucco and masonry. Thanks to our high quality coatings and applicators, even first-time painters can achieve professional-quality results.
We're here to help you through this process with easy-to-follow tips and online project planning tools.
And, with more than 3,000 neighborhood Sherwin-Williams stores across the nation, it's easy to get the paints and products you want and the friendly expert advice you appreciate.
Choosing The Right Paint
The type of paint you'll use depends on the kind of surface to be painted - wood, aluminum, vinyl, stucco or masonry - and the type of finish you want. Exterior paint is specifically formulated to provide:
· Color and gloss retention
· Flexibility to withstand expansion and contraction due to weather
· Mildew resistance
Latex or Oil
Exterior house paints fall into one of two categories: latex or oil (alkyd). Each has different characteristics.
Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Sherwin-Williams latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.
Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Sherwin-Williams oil / alkyd-based paints excellent choices for exterior trim. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.
Matching Paint to Surfaces
To ensure a quality paint job that will last, the paint you'll use depends on the type of surface you want to paint.
Walls - Because it's easy to work with, latex paint is an excellent choice for do-it-yourself projects. Latex paints can be applied over properly prepared wood, vinyl, aluminum and stucco.
Metal - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal. However, these metals need to be properly primed if you're using oil/alkyd-based paint.
Trim - Either latex or oil/alkyd paint is appropriate for trim. Gloss and high gloss finishes are generally your first choice, but flat or satin finishes are fine selections.
Masonry - H&C® Concrete Stains and Sealers and Loxon® Coatings are excellent for protecting and beautifying masonry and brickwork.
Selecting a Sheen
Exterior paint comes in a full range of sheens. The finish you choose will be based on the type of surface you're painting and the durability and final appearance you want to achieve.
Flat/ Matte - This finish softens the look of an exterior and helps hide surface blemishes. Flat finishes are ideal for body siding.
Satin - With its slight gloss, this finish offers the benefits of a flat finish with added cleanability. It works best for:
· Trim
· Window Frames
· Shutters
· Surfaces that need routine cleaning
Gloss - This lustrous, durable finish is perfect for areas that require frequent cleaning. Gloss finishes, however, may accentuate surface imperfections. This finish is ideal for:
· Doors
· Garage doors
· Decorative metal (lamp posts, metal trim)
· Functional metal (gutters, downspouts, railings)
· Accent trim
High Gloss - This extremely hard and shiny finish provides a rich, smooth luster. Gloss finishes, however, may accentuate surface imperfections. This finish is excellent for:
· Front (main entry) doors
· Decorative fixtures
· Accent trim
A fresh coat of paint is the most inexpensive way to freshen up and protect your home's exterior. Sherwin-Williams has paints for wood, aluminum, vinyl, stucco and masonry. Thanks to our high quality coatings and applicators, even first-time painters can achieve professional-quality results.
We're here to help you through this process with easy-to-follow tips and online project planning tools.
And, with more than 3,000 neighborhood Sherwin-Williams stores across the nation, it's easy to get the paints and products you want and the friendly expert advice you appreciate.
Choosing The Right Paint
The type of paint you'll use depends on the kind of surface to be painted - wood, aluminum, vinyl, stucco or masonry - and the type of finish you want. Exterior paint is specifically formulated to provide:
· Color and gloss retention
· Flexibility to withstand expansion and contraction due to weather
· Mildew resistance
Latex or Oil
Exterior house paints fall into one of two categories: latex or oil (alkyd). Each has different characteristics.
Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Sherwin-Williams latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.
Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Sherwin-Williams oil / alkyd-based paints excellent choices for exterior trim. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.
Matching Paint to Surfaces
To ensure a quality paint job that will last, the paint you'll use depends on the type of surface you want to paint.
Walls - Because it's easy to work with, latex paint is an excellent choice for do-it-yourself projects. Latex paints can be applied over properly prepared wood, vinyl, aluminum and stucco.
Metal - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal. However, these metals need to be properly primed if you're using oil/alkyd-based paint.
Trim - Either latex or oil/alkyd paint is appropriate for trim. Gloss and high gloss finishes are generally your first choice, but flat or satin finishes are fine selections.
Masonry - H&C® Concrete Stains and Sealers and Loxon® Coatings are excellent for protecting and beautifying masonry and brickwork.
Selecting a Sheen
Exterior paint comes in a full range of sheens. The finish you choose will be based on the type of surface you're painting and the durability and final appearance you want to achieve.
Flat/ Matte - This finish softens the look of an exterior and helps hide surface blemishes. Flat finishes are ideal for body siding.
Satin - With its slight gloss, this finish offers the benefits of a flat finish with added cleanability. It works best for:
· Trim
· Window Frames
· Shutters
· Surfaces that need routine cleaning
Gloss - This lustrous, durable finish is perfect for areas that require frequent cleaning. Gloss finishes, however, may accentuate surface imperfections. This finish is ideal for:
· Doors
· Garage doors
· Decorative metal (lamp posts, metal trim)
· Functional metal (gutters, downspouts, railings)
· Accent trim
High Gloss - This extremely hard and shiny finish provides a rich, smooth luster. Gloss finishes, however, may accentuate surface imperfections. This finish is excellent for:
· Front (main entry) doors
· Decorative fixtures
· Accent trim
Monday, January 26, 2009
Cleaning Up
By Sherwin Williams
Clean-up procedures depend largely on the paint you use. Here are guidelines for cleaning up. To maximize your investment on painting tools, make sure to clean them right after use.
Latex Paints
· Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with water.
· Clean brushes, rollers and other tools with soap and water.
· After cleaning, flush spraying equipment with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. Follow manufacturer's safety recommendations when using mineral spirits.
Oil Alkyd Paints
· Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
· Oil-based (alkyd) paint must be removed from tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
· Pour the cleaning material into a clean bucket and rinse brushes and rollers well.
· When done, allow the solids to settle out of the cleaner, then strain the liquid back into the original container for reuse.
· Allow the settled solids to air-dry away from children, pets or open flames, then dispose of the container in the trash.
Brushes should be kept in their original wrapper or paper-wrapped in a manner that retains their original shape before storing.
Protect Your Paint Job
Wait at least two weeks before washing the newly painted surface. After that, clean with a mild household detergent and a soft cloth or sponge.
Tips to Protect the Environment
Try to buy only the amount of paint you need so there is little to dispose of when you complete your project. If you do have leftovers, follow these guidelines:
· Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep it fresh, place a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid. Pound down the lid securely.
· Check with your local waste collector to see if it accepts dried latex paint. If so, place the open can in an airy spot away from children and pets. When the paint is completely dry, put it in the trash.
· Seal oil/alkyd paints in the can and store them safely away from heat sources until you can take them to an appropriate waste-disposal site, such as community paint/stain collection events where you can safely dispose of leftover paints.
· Never pour paint, stain, or any other coating down a drain, into a storm sewer or anywhere else that might contaminate the environment.
Clean-up procedures depend largely on the paint you use. Here are guidelines for cleaning up. To maximize your investment on painting tools, make sure to clean them right after use.
Latex Paints
· Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with water.
· Clean brushes, rollers and other tools with soap and water.
· After cleaning, flush spraying equipment with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. Follow manufacturer's safety recommendations when using mineral spirits.
Oil Alkyd Paints
· Clean any spills before they dry with a paper towel dampened with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
· Oil-based (alkyd) paint must be removed from tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
· Pour the cleaning material into a clean bucket and rinse brushes and rollers well.
· When done, allow the solids to settle out of the cleaner, then strain the liquid back into the original container for reuse.
· Allow the settled solids to air-dry away from children, pets or open flames, then dispose of the container in the trash.
Brushes should be kept in their original wrapper or paper-wrapped in a manner that retains their original shape before storing.
Protect Your Paint Job
Wait at least two weeks before washing the newly painted surface. After that, clean with a mild household detergent and a soft cloth or sponge.
Tips to Protect the Environment
Try to buy only the amount of paint you need so there is little to dispose of when you complete your project. If you do have leftovers, follow these guidelines:
· Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep it fresh, place a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid. Pound down the lid securely.
· Check with your local waste collector to see if it accepts dried latex paint. If so, place the open can in an airy spot away from children and pets. When the paint is completely dry, put it in the trash.
· Seal oil/alkyd paints in the can and store them safely away from heat sources until you can take them to an appropriate waste-disposal site, such as community paint/stain collection events where you can safely dispose of leftover paints.
· Never pour paint, stain, or any other coating down a drain, into a storm sewer or anywhere else that might contaminate the environment.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Painting
By Sherwin Williams
Getting Ready to Paint
Preparing the room before beginning your project not only makes it easier for you to paint, it also protects your home from inadvertent splatters or spills.
· Remove draperies, pictures, mirrors, area rugs, hardware (if possible), and switch and receptacle cover plates.
· Move all furniture to the center of the room or the room, if possible. Cover all furniture with drop cloths.
· Tape off woodwork and tape down plastic drop cloths.
· Wrap plastic around light fixtures, and use masking tape to cover any hardware you can't remove.
· Open a window or door to ensure good ventilation.
· Clean the surface as needed.
· Gaps between walls, ceilings, crown moldings and other interior trim can be filled with the appropriate ProSelect® caulk after priming the surface.
In addition to friendly expert advice, you can find drop cloths, masking tape, caulk and more at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.
Caution: When using oil-based coatings, keep paint away from heat, sparks and open flame. Do not smoke. Extinguish all flames, pilot lights and heaters. Turn off stoves, electrical tools, appliances and any other sources of electrical ignition. While painting and until all vapors are gone, keep the area well-ventilated.
Painting Order
It may seem obvious, but it's important to paint a room in the right order. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.
Ceilings
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall.
· Using a roller with an extension pole, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Walls
· Paint a 2-inch strip along ceiling, floor and woodwork with a brush.
· Use a roller, coming as close to the edges as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance.
Woodwork
· Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor.
Floor
· Start in a corner diagonally opposite the room exit.
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim.
· Using a roller with an extension pole or a wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Painting Techniques
Using good painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you want.
Using a Brush
1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don't bear hard on the brush.
Using a Roller
1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
2. Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.
Painting Double-Hung Windows
1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.
2. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.
3. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the windows.
Casement or Awning Windows
1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
2. Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.
Paneled Doors
1. First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, wipe it up immediately with a soft cloth.
2. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.
3. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lockside edge.
Flush Doors
1. Paint the edges first.
2. Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.
3. Finish with the frame and jamb.
Getting Ready to Paint
Preparing the room before beginning your project not only makes it easier for you to paint, it also protects your home from inadvertent splatters or spills.
· Remove draperies, pictures, mirrors, area rugs, hardware (if possible), and switch and receptacle cover plates.
· Move all furniture to the center of the room or the room, if possible. Cover all furniture with drop cloths.
· Tape off woodwork and tape down plastic drop cloths.
· Wrap plastic around light fixtures, and use masking tape to cover any hardware you can't remove.
· Open a window or door to ensure good ventilation.
· Clean the surface as needed.
· Gaps between walls, ceilings, crown moldings and other interior trim can be filled with the appropriate ProSelect® caulk after priming the surface.
In addition to friendly expert advice, you can find drop cloths, masking tape, caulk and more at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.
Caution: When using oil-based coatings, keep paint away from heat, sparks and open flame. Do not smoke. Extinguish all flames, pilot lights and heaters. Turn off stoves, electrical tools, appliances and any other sources of electrical ignition. While painting and until all vapors are gone, keep the area well-ventilated.
Painting Order
It may seem obvious, but it's important to paint a room in the right order. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.
Ceilings
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall.
· Using a roller with an extension pole, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Walls
· Paint a 2-inch strip along ceiling, floor and woodwork with a brush.
· Use a roller, coming as close to the edges as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance.
Woodwork
· Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor.
Floor
· Start in a corner diagonally opposite the room exit.
· Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim.
· Using a roller with an extension pole or a wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.
Painting Techniques
Using good painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you want.
Using a Brush
1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don't bear hard on the brush.
Using a Roller
1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
2. Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.
Painting Double-Hung Windows
1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.
2. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.
3. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the windows.
Casement or Awning Windows
1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
2. Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.
Paneled Doors
1. First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, wipe it up immediately with a soft cloth.
2. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.
3. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lockside edge.
Flush Doors
1. Paint the edges first.
2. Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.
3. Finish with the frame and jamb.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Preparing
By Sherwin Williams
To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, take the time to ensure that the surface to be painted is clean, dry and smooth and coated with the correct primer.
Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide additional advice about which PrepRite® primer is right for your project.
And remember, we also carry all the tools you'll need for surface preparation - such as ladders, wire brushes, paint scrapers, putty knives, wood filler and spackling paste - to prepare a surface for painting.
Surface Preparation
Preparation. It's the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.
Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.
Surface Type
Preparation Steps
Bare Wood
· Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching paste.
· Sand smooth and remove sanding dust with a tack cloth.
· Prime all bare wood and patched areas with a PrepRite® Primer.
New Plaster Walls
· These must be clean and completely cured.
· Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be:- Treated with a solution of one pint household vinegar in one gallon of water. - Repeat the treatment until the surface is hard. - Rinse with plain water.- Let dry and apply PrepRite Primer.
New Drywall
· Panels must be securely nailed or glued in place.
· All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting.
· When joint cement and/or patching materials are thoroughly dry, sand smooth, wipe away dust, then prime.
Wallpaper
· Always remove wallpaper before painting. Use a chemical wallpaper remover or rent a steamer, if necessary.
· Once the paper is removed, wash off old adhesive. Rinse with water and allow the wall to dry before priming.
Previously Painted Surfaces
· Wash off dirt, grease, soap and oil buildup with the appropriate cleaner. Rinse thoroughly.
· Remove loose paint and powdery substances.
· Patch holes and cracks with spackling or patching compound. Allow to dry, then sand smooth.
· For glossy or nonporous surfaces, lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser.
· Remove sanding dust or cleanser residue.
· Make sure to prime all bare areas prior to applying topcoat. (Avoid "spot priming," which can result in a nonuniform appearance between primed and non-primed areas.)
Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block
· All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier's recommendations- usually about 30 days.
· Remove all form release and curing agents.
· Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface.
· If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with PrepRite® Masonry Primer.
Priming
To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.
Sherwin-Williams primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:
· Covers stains and discoloration
· Blocks out odors
· Anchors the finish coat so it "sticks" better
· Ensures a rich shine for enamels
· Hides surface marks and darker colors
· Fills and levels out uneven surfaces
· Seals porous surfaces
Sherwin-Williams make it easy to choose the right primer. Our PrepRite® Classic Interior Latex Primer is perfect for most home painting projects. It goes on easy, dries fast and provides the best coverage on a variety of new or previously painted surfaces, such as wood, plaster and drywall.
Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide additional advice about which PrepRite® primer is right for your project.
Color Prime® System
You can get the best topcoat color results for many bold, deep, vivid or transparent hues by using Sherwin-Williams Color Prime® System of gray-shaded primers.
How it Works
Primer tinted to the right shade of gray creates the ideal balance of light absorption and light reflection. The Color Prime® System (patent pending) has been designed to achieve better hide, more uniform color and less streaking. It requires fewer coats of finish and provides improved touch-up - saving time, material and money.
Sherwin-Williams color samples are coded (P1 through P6) to tell you which shade of gray your primer should be tinted.
Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide additional advice about whether the Sherwin-Williams Color Prime System is right for your project.
To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, take the time to ensure that the surface to be painted is clean, dry and smooth and coated with the correct primer.
Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide additional advice about which PrepRite® primer is right for your project.
And remember, we also carry all the tools you'll need for surface preparation - such as ladders, wire brushes, paint scrapers, putty knives, wood filler and spackling paste - to prepare a surface for painting.
Surface Preparation
Preparation. It's the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.
Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.
Surface Type
Preparation Steps
Bare Wood
· Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching paste.
· Sand smooth and remove sanding dust with a tack cloth.
· Prime all bare wood and patched areas with a PrepRite® Primer.
New Plaster Walls
· These must be clean and completely cured.
· Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be:- Treated with a solution of one pint household vinegar in one gallon of water. - Repeat the treatment until the surface is hard. - Rinse with plain water.- Let dry and apply PrepRite Primer.
New Drywall
· Panels must be securely nailed or glued in place.
· All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting.
· When joint cement and/or patching materials are thoroughly dry, sand smooth, wipe away dust, then prime.
Wallpaper
· Always remove wallpaper before painting. Use a chemical wallpaper remover or rent a steamer, if necessary.
· Once the paper is removed, wash off old adhesive. Rinse with water and allow the wall to dry before priming.
Previously Painted Surfaces
· Wash off dirt, grease, soap and oil buildup with the appropriate cleaner. Rinse thoroughly.
· Remove loose paint and powdery substances.
· Patch holes and cracks with spackling or patching compound. Allow to dry, then sand smooth.
· For glossy or nonporous surfaces, lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser.
· Remove sanding dust or cleanser residue.
· Make sure to prime all bare areas prior to applying topcoat. (Avoid "spot priming," which can result in a nonuniform appearance between primed and non-primed areas.)
Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block
· All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier's recommendations- usually about 30 days.
· Remove all form release and curing agents.
· Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface.
· If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with PrepRite® Masonry Primer.
Priming
To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.
Sherwin-Williams primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:
· Covers stains and discoloration
· Blocks out odors
· Anchors the finish coat so it "sticks" better
· Ensures a rich shine for enamels
· Hides surface marks and darker colors
· Fills and levels out uneven surfaces
· Seals porous surfaces
Sherwin-Williams make it easy to choose the right primer. Our PrepRite® Classic Interior Latex Primer is perfect for most home painting projects. It goes on easy, dries fast and provides the best coverage on a variety of new or previously painted surfaces, such as wood, plaster and drywall.
Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide additional advice about which PrepRite® primer is right for your project.
Color Prime® System
You can get the best topcoat color results for many bold, deep, vivid or transparent hues by using Sherwin-Williams Color Prime® System of gray-shaded primers.
How it Works
Primer tinted to the right shade of gray creates the ideal balance of light absorption and light reflection. The Color Prime® System (patent pending) has been designed to achieve better hide, more uniform color and less streaking. It requires fewer coats of finish and provides improved touch-up - saving time, material and money.
Sherwin-Williams color samples are coded (P1 through P6) to tell you which shade of gray your primer should be tinted.
Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide additional advice about whether the Sherwin-Williams Color Prime System is right for your project.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Planning
By Sherwin Williams
A fresh coat of paint is the most inexpensive way to "remodel" a room. Thanks to our high quality coatings and applicators, even first-time painters can achieve professional-quality results.
We're here to help you through this process with easy-to-follow tips and online project planning tools that answer common questions on how to paint.
And, with more than 3,000 neighborhood Sherwin-Williams stores across the nation, it's easy to get the paints you want and the friendly expert advice you appreciate.
Choosing the Right Paint
The type of paint you'll use depends on how the room to be painted will be used and the type of finish you want. Interior paint is specifically formulated to provide:
· Scrubbability and stain resistance
· Good hiding ability
· Good coverage
· Spatter resistance
· Easy touch-up
Latex or Oil?Interior house paints are either latex- or oil/alkyd-based. Today, most oil-based paints are made with synthetic resins (alkyds), which perform better than paints based on natural oils. Each has different characteristics and uses. Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide advice about which paint is right for your project.
Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Sherwin-Williams latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.
Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Sherwin-Williams oil/alkyd-based paints excellent choices for trim in high-traffic rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.
Matching Paint to Surfaces
Choosing the right paint for the surface will help ensure that you achieve a quality paint job that will last.
Ceilings - Use specially formulated flat ceiling paint (such as Classic 99® or StylePerfect®). The flat finish hides irregularities and lap marks. Ceiling paint rolls on with minimal spatter and won't yellow over time.
Woodwork - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint. Always prime bare wood. Easy-to-clean semi-gloss finishes are first choice, but when wear-and-tear is modest, flat or satin finishes are fine selections.
Walls - Because it's easy to work with, latex paint is an excellent choice for do-it-yourself projects. Latex paints can be applied over properly primed drywall, wood or masonry.
Metal - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal. However, these metals need to be properly primed if you're using oil/alkyd-based paint.
Masonry - For cement, concrete block and brick surfaces, acrylic latex wall paint designed for masonry surfaces is an excellent choice.
Floors - Use high-gloss acrylic floor enamels to stand up to abrasion, traffic and heavy scrubbing.
Selecting a Finish
From flat to gloss, both latex and oil/alkyd paints offer a full range of finishes. The sheen you choose is based on the final look and wearability you want to achieve.
Flat - Its matte appearance softens a room and helps hide surface blemishes, making walls look smooth. This finish, which cleans easily with a damp sponge, is ideal for:
· Adult bedrooms
· Dining rooms
· Formal living rooms
· Ceilings
Satin - With its slight gloss, this finish offers the benefits of a flat finish with added cleanability. It works best for high-traffic areas such as:
· Halls
· Woodwork
· Children's bedrooms
· Family rooms
Semi-Gloss - This lustrous, durable finish is perfect for areas that get cleaned frequently, such as:
· Kitchens
· Bathrooms
· Utility area
· Closet doors
· Trim
Gloss - This extremely hard and shiny finish provides a rich, smooth luster and is excellent for:
· Wood trim
· Cabinets
· Doors
· Furniture
A fresh coat of paint is the most inexpensive way to "remodel" a room. Thanks to our high quality coatings and applicators, even first-time painters can achieve professional-quality results.
We're here to help you through this process with easy-to-follow tips and online project planning tools that answer common questions on how to paint.
And, with more than 3,000 neighborhood Sherwin-Williams stores across the nation, it's easy to get the paints you want and the friendly expert advice you appreciate.
Choosing the Right Paint
The type of paint you'll use depends on how the room to be painted will be used and the type of finish you want. Interior paint is specifically formulated to provide:
· Scrubbability and stain resistance
· Good hiding ability
· Good coverage
· Spatter resistance
· Easy touch-up
Latex or Oil?Interior house paints are either latex- or oil/alkyd-based. Today, most oil-based paints are made with synthetic resins (alkyds), which perform better than paints based on natural oils. Each has different characteristics and uses. Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide advice about which paint is right for your project.
Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Sherwin-Williams latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.
Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Sherwin-Williams oil/alkyd-based paints excellent choices for trim in high-traffic rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.
Matching Paint to Surfaces
Choosing the right paint for the surface will help ensure that you achieve a quality paint job that will last.
Ceilings - Use specially formulated flat ceiling paint (such as Classic 99® or StylePerfect®). The flat finish hides irregularities and lap marks. Ceiling paint rolls on with minimal spatter and won't yellow over time.
Woodwork - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint. Always prime bare wood. Easy-to-clean semi-gloss finishes are first choice, but when wear-and-tear is modest, flat or satin finishes are fine selections.
Walls - Because it's easy to work with, latex paint is an excellent choice for do-it-yourself projects. Latex paints can be applied over properly primed drywall, wood or masonry.
Metal - Use either latex or oil/alkyd paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal. However, these metals need to be properly primed if you're using oil/alkyd-based paint.
Masonry - For cement, concrete block and brick surfaces, acrylic latex wall paint designed for masonry surfaces is an excellent choice.
Floors - Use high-gloss acrylic floor enamels to stand up to abrasion, traffic and heavy scrubbing.
Selecting a Finish
From flat to gloss, both latex and oil/alkyd paints offer a full range of finishes. The sheen you choose is based on the final look and wearability you want to achieve.
Flat - Its matte appearance softens a room and helps hide surface blemishes, making walls look smooth. This finish, which cleans easily with a damp sponge, is ideal for:
· Adult bedrooms
· Dining rooms
· Formal living rooms
· Ceilings
Satin - With its slight gloss, this finish offers the benefits of a flat finish with added cleanability. It works best for high-traffic areas such as:
· Halls
· Woodwork
· Children's bedrooms
· Family rooms
Semi-Gloss - This lustrous, durable finish is perfect for areas that get cleaned frequently, such as:
· Kitchens
· Bathrooms
· Utility area
· Closet doors
· Trim
Gloss - This extremely hard and shiny finish provides a rich, smooth luster and is excellent for:
· Wood trim
· Cabinets
· Doors
· Furniture
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Green Remodeling with Eco Friendly Paint
Looking for a way to make your house beautiful? There are many ways to update an old home, but whether you’re tearing down walls or just adding a little color, one thing you’ll definitely need is paint.
Virtually hundreds of paint choices fill the shelves of your local hardware store, so selecting a healthy, dependable, and eco friendly paint can take a bit of time, unless . . . you are equipped with the knowledge of a few key qualities that set eco paints apart from the rest. Before we dip our brushes into that bucket, let’s look at some reasons why run-of-the-mill paint can be hazardous to our health and to the environment.
Potential Hazards of Paint
According to the EPA, the concentration of pollutants inside your home is several times higher than what you’ll find outside, due to the lack of ventilation in rooms compared to the open spaciousness of the great outdoors. Without proper ventilation, airborne chemicals collect indoors and eventually cause damage to our bodies. Headaches, dizziness, fatigue, asthma, cancer, and heart disease are all potential side effects of indoor air pollution. Although the contamination cannot be attributed to any single source, paint and paint-related chemicals play a significant role inside a typical home.
The airborne chemicals released during painting, after the paint is dry, and as paint is removed, fall into a category of pollutants known as volatile organic compounds (VOCs)—potentially carcinogenic carbon-based chemicals that evaporate easily and contribute to indoor air pollution. Harmful compounds in the VOC category range from formaldehyde to pesticides to cleaning chemicals. They can be up to ten times more concentrated indoors than outdoors, in both rural and industrial locations. However, VOCs contribute significantly to air pollution out of doors as well. VOCs are released in the highest concentrations during paint application, but most paint will continue to emit harmful fumes for years afterwards.
The quality of many natural paints is commonly criticized because, in times past, colors tended to fade and you could not wash the walls without a touch-up following close behind. Newer eco paints, especially some newer lime washes, are more durable, washable, and longer lasting than those that came before them—some are even used for the restoration and preservation of national monuments!
Low-VOC Paints
Due to environmental regulations and increasing consumer demand, paint companies have developed new house paints that emit little or no VOCs. This is achieved by using water as a base instead of traditional, petroleum-based oil solvents. "Low-VOC" paints must meet the EPA standard of a maximum 200 grams volatile compound per liter of paint. Varnishes are awarded a limit of 300 grams. Although this is already less than half the VOC content of typical paints, Green Seal—a non-profit organization dedicated to improving environmental standards for paint and other products—has developed a certification process that limits low-VOC paints to 50 grams of VOC per liter. Look for the Green Seal on paint products to ensure only the lowest VOC paints are used in your home.
Ultra low-VOC paints are labeled "zero-VOC." These paints can sometimes cost a bit more than the regular cans, but the EPA restricts this label to paints with less than 5 grams of volatile compound per liter. Check to make sure that the products contain little or no formaldehyde, ammonia, or acetone—non-petroleum compounds that can adversely affect indoor air quality. Biocides and fungicides that prevent mildew growth and extend the shelf life of paint are also commonly added, despite their toxicity and their tendency to off gas for years after application.
Eartheasy provides a list of companies that produce low-VOC paints and directs you to Web sites where low-VOC options can be purchased.
Natural Interior Paints
A natural paint does not contain heavy metal or any VOCs. Natural paints and wood finishes are often composed of natural plant dyes, oils, and waxes. A number of environmentally conscious companies manufacture these products in all of the expected forms—paint, primer, finish, sealer, stain, wax, etc.—but many consumers find the costs overwhelming. Let's take a look at our natural options to see how they measure up.
Clay PaintClay paint is one of the most common natural paints—it is composed of earth-based minerals and uses mostly water as a solvent. If you enjoy an earthy, adobe look for your home, a coat of organic clay paint may be a good choice for your green home remodeling project. Colors range from natural earth tones to an assortment of blue, white, and orange tints. Clay paints adhere readily to most surfaces found inside a house, requires only two coats like most standard paints, and also function as an effective odor-absorber. The downside is that these paints are usually more expensive than petroleum-based paint and do not come in as wide a range of colors or textures.
If you wanted to paint your trim bright red or neon yellow, clay would not suit your needs. Also, clay paints can only be used indoors and clay-painted walls cannot be scrubbed, washed, or wiped down after they are stained or dirtied (without risking damage to the paint job), thus requiring touch-up painting to cover damaged spots. Although this problem can be remedied with a low-VOC sealer, you will have to commit a few extra dollars to purchase this premium product on top of your already costly clay paint.
Lime WashA reasonably inexpensive green alternative to traditional paint is lime wash. Limestone, a calcium-based mineral, is combined with water to form a simple, natural paint that is the basis of all whitewashes. Lime wash can be used indoors or outdoors and forms a unique, glowing finish that comes in a variety of colors. Surfaces that take well to lime washing differ from traditional paint surfaces because lime wash actually sinks into its subsurface, leaving a coat of calcium crystals that wears off the surface over time and creates a characteristic antique look. Because of this, lime wash can only be used with porous materials such as brick, wood, plaster, and concrete—drywall and painted surfaces do not take lime wash effectively. Lime wash is applied in thin coats, several of which may be needed for a thorough paint job. Although 100% natural, limestone is corrosive to both eyes and skin, so wear gloves and goggles during application.
The quality of natural paints is commonly criticized because, in times past, colors tended to fade and you could not wash the walls without a touch-up following close behind. Newer eco paints, especially some newer lime washes, are more durable, washable, and longer lasting than those that came before them—some are even used for the restoration and preservation of national monuments!
Milk PaintAnother time-tested natural paint is milk-based paint. Casein, a protein found in milk products, is separated from the milk and mixed with water, clay, and earth pigments to form a thick, eco-friendly paint. Casein paint is a form of tempera paint, a fast-drying egg-based paint that has been in use since the days of ancient Egypt. Today, it is purchased in a dry, powdered form. The powder must be mixed with water and then used immediately (usually within hours to days) to prevent the paint from clumping before it reaches its destination. Milk, like clay, is intended as an interior paint and only comes in a matte finish.
Exterior Paints and Finishes
Unfriendly chemicals are often required to toughen paints slated for use in the great outdoors. Natural paints are rarely tough enough for outdoor use, so the variety of environmentally friendly outdoor paint is not nearly as extensive. Fortunately, the problem of VOCs is far less detrimental in outside painting projcts, as the air dilutes the effect of VOCs and awards outdoor paints and finishes a little leeway that is not given to indoor-use options. Outdoor coatings may call themselves eco-friendly as long as the product does not contain heavy metals or toxins.
Green remodelers concerned about outdoor air pollution do have options for low-VOC outdoor coverings. For those of us who are determined to find a completely natural exterior coating, the options are generally limited to stain, finish, or lime wash. For environmentally friendly low-VOC paints, browse these brands and others on the net or store shelves:
· BioShield Paint
· earthBorn Paints
· Ecos Organic Paints
· Safecoat
· St. Astier Lime Paints (especially their Natural Hydraulic Limes, which are non-toxic, recyclable, salt and bacteria resistant, and inhospitable to mildew)
· YOLO Colorhouse
Green Seal provides a list of certified paints and coatings.
Paint Removal
Some paint projects require removing a coat of paint before applying a new one. If you are trying to renew an old piece of furniture or get the paint of your beautiful wooden floor, you are going to need a paint stripper.
Before purchasing a remover, check the type of coat that you are trying to remove. A paint requires a different solvent than a wood finish, and different finishes necessitate separate strippers as well. Check that you are using the right product for the job—it will save you hours of elbow grease in the long run. To remove a coating from an upright surface (such as a wall), consider getting a remover that is a little pasty so that it stays in place after being applied to the surface.
Paint strippers are often petroleum based, which brings up the problem of VOCs, but they also contain a particularly harmful chemical called methylene chloride or, dichloromethane. If you can’t find a methylene-free remover at your local hardware store, look on the internet—there are a few eco friendly manufacturers available on the web. Be careful though, a methylene-free stripper still contains some pretty harsh chemicals. When performing your paint removal project, keep your workspace well ventilated and use gloves to keep unwanted compounds from absorbing through the skin.
A warning for readers who plan to remove paint: Before removing an old paint project from your walls, test for lead, especially if the surface was painted prior to 1980. Lead testing kits can be purchased at hardware stores nationwide. If your paint does contain lead, you may need a professional paint removal service to clear this toxin of your home without risk of contamination.
Painting Tips
If you are planning to try some of the environmental paint options presented in this article, here are a few tips you might find useful:
· Paints that do not contain VOCs are often water-based, which means they can be damaged by freezing temperatures. Store your paints indoors and time your order carefully—the paints can be damaged by cold weather during shipping.
· Store paint cans upside down. This will ensure that the lids are on tight, and will prevent air from flowing in and out of the can, which causes the paint to thicken and dry. A healthy can of paint saves the environment and your bank account.
· If you are using a combination of water and oil-based paints, be sure to use separate brushes for each one. As we all know, oil and water don’t mix, and trying to combine paints on a brush will result in a poor finished product.
Green Living Ideas
Virtually hundreds of paint choices fill the shelves of your local hardware store, so selecting a healthy, dependable, and eco friendly paint can take a bit of time, unless . . . you are equipped with the knowledge of a few key qualities that set eco paints apart from the rest. Before we dip our brushes into that bucket, let’s look at some reasons why run-of-the-mill paint can be hazardous to our health and to the environment.
Potential Hazards of Paint
According to the EPA, the concentration of pollutants inside your home is several times higher than what you’ll find outside, due to the lack of ventilation in rooms compared to the open spaciousness of the great outdoors. Without proper ventilation, airborne chemicals collect indoors and eventually cause damage to our bodies. Headaches, dizziness, fatigue, asthma, cancer, and heart disease are all potential side effects of indoor air pollution. Although the contamination cannot be attributed to any single source, paint and paint-related chemicals play a significant role inside a typical home.
The airborne chemicals released during painting, after the paint is dry, and as paint is removed, fall into a category of pollutants known as volatile organic compounds (VOCs)—potentially carcinogenic carbon-based chemicals that evaporate easily and contribute to indoor air pollution. Harmful compounds in the VOC category range from formaldehyde to pesticides to cleaning chemicals. They can be up to ten times more concentrated indoors than outdoors, in both rural and industrial locations. However, VOCs contribute significantly to air pollution out of doors as well. VOCs are released in the highest concentrations during paint application, but most paint will continue to emit harmful fumes for years afterwards.
The quality of many natural paints is commonly criticized because, in times past, colors tended to fade and you could not wash the walls without a touch-up following close behind. Newer eco paints, especially some newer lime washes, are more durable, washable, and longer lasting than those that came before them—some are even used for the restoration and preservation of national monuments!
Low-VOC Paints
Due to environmental regulations and increasing consumer demand, paint companies have developed new house paints that emit little or no VOCs. This is achieved by using water as a base instead of traditional, petroleum-based oil solvents. "Low-VOC" paints must meet the EPA standard of a maximum 200 grams volatile compound per liter of paint. Varnishes are awarded a limit of 300 grams. Although this is already less than half the VOC content of typical paints, Green Seal—a non-profit organization dedicated to improving environmental standards for paint and other products—has developed a certification process that limits low-VOC paints to 50 grams of VOC per liter. Look for the Green Seal on paint products to ensure only the lowest VOC paints are used in your home.
Ultra low-VOC paints are labeled "zero-VOC." These paints can sometimes cost a bit more than the regular cans, but the EPA restricts this label to paints with less than 5 grams of volatile compound per liter. Check to make sure that the products contain little or no formaldehyde, ammonia, or acetone—non-petroleum compounds that can adversely affect indoor air quality. Biocides and fungicides that prevent mildew growth and extend the shelf life of paint are also commonly added, despite their toxicity and their tendency to off gas for years after application.
Eartheasy provides a list of companies that produce low-VOC paints and directs you to Web sites where low-VOC options can be purchased.
Natural Interior Paints
A natural paint does not contain heavy metal or any VOCs. Natural paints and wood finishes are often composed of natural plant dyes, oils, and waxes. A number of environmentally conscious companies manufacture these products in all of the expected forms—paint, primer, finish, sealer, stain, wax, etc.—but many consumers find the costs overwhelming. Let's take a look at our natural options to see how they measure up.
Clay PaintClay paint is one of the most common natural paints—it is composed of earth-based minerals and uses mostly water as a solvent. If you enjoy an earthy, adobe look for your home, a coat of organic clay paint may be a good choice for your green home remodeling project. Colors range from natural earth tones to an assortment of blue, white, and orange tints. Clay paints adhere readily to most surfaces found inside a house, requires only two coats like most standard paints, and also function as an effective odor-absorber. The downside is that these paints are usually more expensive than petroleum-based paint and do not come in as wide a range of colors or textures.
If you wanted to paint your trim bright red or neon yellow, clay would not suit your needs. Also, clay paints can only be used indoors and clay-painted walls cannot be scrubbed, washed, or wiped down after they are stained or dirtied (without risking damage to the paint job), thus requiring touch-up painting to cover damaged spots. Although this problem can be remedied with a low-VOC sealer, you will have to commit a few extra dollars to purchase this premium product on top of your already costly clay paint.
Lime WashA reasonably inexpensive green alternative to traditional paint is lime wash. Limestone, a calcium-based mineral, is combined with water to form a simple, natural paint that is the basis of all whitewashes. Lime wash can be used indoors or outdoors and forms a unique, glowing finish that comes in a variety of colors. Surfaces that take well to lime washing differ from traditional paint surfaces because lime wash actually sinks into its subsurface, leaving a coat of calcium crystals that wears off the surface over time and creates a characteristic antique look. Because of this, lime wash can only be used with porous materials such as brick, wood, plaster, and concrete—drywall and painted surfaces do not take lime wash effectively. Lime wash is applied in thin coats, several of which may be needed for a thorough paint job. Although 100% natural, limestone is corrosive to both eyes and skin, so wear gloves and goggles during application.
The quality of natural paints is commonly criticized because, in times past, colors tended to fade and you could not wash the walls without a touch-up following close behind. Newer eco paints, especially some newer lime washes, are more durable, washable, and longer lasting than those that came before them—some are even used for the restoration and preservation of national monuments!
Milk PaintAnother time-tested natural paint is milk-based paint. Casein, a protein found in milk products, is separated from the milk and mixed with water, clay, and earth pigments to form a thick, eco-friendly paint. Casein paint is a form of tempera paint, a fast-drying egg-based paint that has been in use since the days of ancient Egypt. Today, it is purchased in a dry, powdered form. The powder must be mixed with water and then used immediately (usually within hours to days) to prevent the paint from clumping before it reaches its destination. Milk, like clay, is intended as an interior paint and only comes in a matte finish.
Exterior Paints and Finishes
Unfriendly chemicals are often required to toughen paints slated for use in the great outdoors. Natural paints are rarely tough enough for outdoor use, so the variety of environmentally friendly outdoor paint is not nearly as extensive. Fortunately, the problem of VOCs is far less detrimental in outside painting projcts, as the air dilutes the effect of VOCs and awards outdoor paints and finishes a little leeway that is not given to indoor-use options. Outdoor coatings may call themselves eco-friendly as long as the product does not contain heavy metals or toxins.
Green remodelers concerned about outdoor air pollution do have options for low-VOC outdoor coverings. For those of us who are determined to find a completely natural exterior coating, the options are generally limited to stain, finish, or lime wash. For environmentally friendly low-VOC paints, browse these brands and others on the net or store shelves:
· BioShield Paint
· earthBorn Paints
· Ecos Organic Paints
· Safecoat
· St. Astier Lime Paints (especially their Natural Hydraulic Limes, which are non-toxic, recyclable, salt and bacteria resistant, and inhospitable to mildew)
· YOLO Colorhouse
Green Seal provides a list of certified paints and coatings.
Paint Removal
Some paint projects require removing a coat of paint before applying a new one. If you are trying to renew an old piece of furniture or get the paint of your beautiful wooden floor, you are going to need a paint stripper.
Before purchasing a remover, check the type of coat that you are trying to remove. A paint requires a different solvent than a wood finish, and different finishes necessitate separate strippers as well. Check that you are using the right product for the job—it will save you hours of elbow grease in the long run. To remove a coating from an upright surface (such as a wall), consider getting a remover that is a little pasty so that it stays in place after being applied to the surface.
Paint strippers are often petroleum based, which brings up the problem of VOCs, but they also contain a particularly harmful chemical called methylene chloride or, dichloromethane. If you can’t find a methylene-free remover at your local hardware store, look on the internet—there are a few eco friendly manufacturers available on the web. Be careful though, a methylene-free stripper still contains some pretty harsh chemicals. When performing your paint removal project, keep your workspace well ventilated and use gloves to keep unwanted compounds from absorbing through the skin.
A warning for readers who plan to remove paint: Before removing an old paint project from your walls, test for lead, especially if the surface was painted prior to 1980. Lead testing kits can be purchased at hardware stores nationwide. If your paint does contain lead, you may need a professional paint removal service to clear this toxin of your home without risk of contamination.
Painting Tips
If you are planning to try some of the environmental paint options presented in this article, here are a few tips you might find useful:
· Paints that do not contain VOCs are often water-based, which means they can be damaged by freezing temperatures. Store your paints indoors and time your order carefully—the paints can be damaged by cold weather during shipping.
· Store paint cans upside down. This will ensure that the lids are on tight, and will prevent air from flowing in and out of the can, which causes the paint to thicken and dry. A healthy can of paint saves the environment and your bank account.
· If you are using a combination of water and oil-based paints, be sure to use separate brushes for each one. As we all know, oil and water don’t mix, and trying to combine paints on a brush will result in a poor finished product.
Green Living Ideas
Choose a Primer
Choose a Primer
If you buy an expensive high-quality paint, you expect it to stick around for a while. However, high-quality paint is formulated to work with a primer. Primers allow the paint to grip better and stay around longer. Sure, they may cost a little more up front, but primers will save you money (and time) in the long run. When you purchase primer, make sure you purchase the right kind for the job.
Do I need a primer?Primers seal porous surfaces like bare wallboard and sealing water borne stains and tannin stains. Some primers are specially designed to adhere to glossy surfaces like ceramic tile or high sheen cabinet surfaces, creating a stable bond for the base coat of paint. Primers work to reduce the amount of paint needed on porous surfaces which saves money.
Do I have to clean the walls?The surface must be free from all dirt, grease, chalk, & mildew in order for the paint to bond securely.Can wallpaper be painted over?Wallpaper can be painted. Take the following precautions: apply a coat of a latex stain-killing primer and a coat of paint on a 12" square area making sure to cover a wallpaper seam. Allow to dry over night. If the pattern bleeds through or the wallpaper loosens from the wall, you will need to remove it before painting. If everything looks good, prime the entire area and paint.
I have peeling paint, what do I do before painting?Peeling paint is usually due to moisture. The moisture problem will need to be corrected before removing the loose paint and re-painting. Caulking around edges will keep moisture out of the substrate. Also, make sure your home has ample ventilation because interior moisture can also cause exterior paint to peel.How do I paint paneling?Paneling requires special surface preparation to help the paint adhere. Sand the surface lightly or use a chemical deglosser to dull the sheen of the coating. Use a specially formulated primer for glossy surfaces as a first coat, which enables the base coat paint to adhere. Do I need to degloss before painting?All paints need to be able to adhere to the surface. Therefore, if you degloss or sand a gloss or semi-gloss painted surface, the new coat of paint will be able to stick to it and keep from streaking and possibly peeling.Can I apply oil-based paints over latex paints or latex paints over oil-based paints?The most important thing to know is the condition of the surface itself. Regardless of whether the base coat is oil or latex, you must dull glossy paint by sanding or deglossing with a chemical deglosser. If you don't dull glossy paint, the second coat will streak and not stick to the base coat when drying. What type of brush do I need?A top quality brush will apply more paint in less time, and provide a better looking, more durable finish. Latex paints should be applied with synthetic brushes (nylon/polyester). Oil-based paints can be applied with natural bristle brushes (China Bristle) or most nylon/polyester brushes.What is enamel?Enamel is only a descriptive term. When used in connection with a particular paint, enamel is used to indicate that the paint forms a tough hard finish, which is usually highly stain resistant and washable. An enamel can be manufactured in nearly any sheens and be either a latex or an oil-based paint
If you buy an expensive high-quality paint, you expect it to stick around for a while. However, high-quality paint is formulated to work with a primer. Primers allow the paint to grip better and stay around longer. Sure, they may cost a little more up front, but primers will save you money (and time) in the long run. When you purchase primer, make sure you purchase the right kind for the job.
Do I need a primer?Primers seal porous surfaces like bare wallboard and sealing water borne stains and tannin stains. Some primers are specially designed to adhere to glossy surfaces like ceramic tile or high sheen cabinet surfaces, creating a stable bond for the base coat of paint. Primers work to reduce the amount of paint needed on porous surfaces which saves money.
Do I have to clean the walls?The surface must be free from all dirt, grease, chalk, & mildew in order for the paint to bond securely.Can wallpaper be painted over?Wallpaper can be painted. Take the following precautions: apply a coat of a latex stain-killing primer and a coat of paint on a 12" square area making sure to cover a wallpaper seam. Allow to dry over night. If the pattern bleeds through or the wallpaper loosens from the wall, you will need to remove it before painting. If everything looks good, prime the entire area and paint.
I have peeling paint, what do I do before painting?Peeling paint is usually due to moisture. The moisture problem will need to be corrected before removing the loose paint and re-painting. Caulking around edges will keep moisture out of the substrate. Also, make sure your home has ample ventilation because interior moisture can also cause exterior paint to peel.How do I paint paneling?Paneling requires special surface preparation to help the paint adhere. Sand the surface lightly or use a chemical deglosser to dull the sheen of the coating. Use a specially formulated primer for glossy surfaces as a first coat, which enables the base coat paint to adhere. Do I need to degloss before painting?All paints need to be able to adhere to the surface. Therefore, if you degloss or sand a gloss or semi-gloss painted surface, the new coat of paint will be able to stick to it and keep from streaking and possibly peeling.Can I apply oil-based paints over latex paints or latex paints over oil-based paints?The most important thing to know is the condition of the surface itself. Regardless of whether the base coat is oil or latex, you must dull glossy paint by sanding or deglossing with a chemical deglosser. If you don't dull glossy paint, the second coat will streak and not stick to the base coat when drying. What type of brush do I need?A top quality brush will apply more paint in less time, and provide a better looking, more durable finish. Latex paints should be applied with synthetic brushes (nylon/polyester). Oil-based paints can be applied with natural bristle brushes (China Bristle) or most nylon/polyester brushes.What is enamel?Enamel is only a descriptive term. When used in connection with a particular paint, enamel is used to indicate that the paint forms a tough hard finish, which is usually highly stain resistant and washable. An enamel can be manufactured in nearly any sheens and be either a latex or an oil-based paint
Type of paint
The type of paint you’ll use depends on how the room to be painted will be used and the type of finish you want. Interior paint is specifically formulated to provide:• Scrubbability and stain resistance• Good hiding ability• Good coverage• Spatter resistance• Easy touch-upLatex or Oil?Interior house paints are either latex- or oil/alkyd-based. Today, most oil-based paints are made with synthetic resins (alkyds), which perform better than paints based on natural oils. Each has different characteristics and uses. Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams paint expert can provide advice about which paint is right for your project.Latex - Get the longest-lasting finish with the best gloss retention. Sherwin-Williams latex paints are easy to work with, dry quickly and are extremely durable. Latex paints clean up easily with soap and water.Oil / Alkyd - Good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance make Sherwin-Williams oil/alkyd-based paints excellent choices for trim in high-traffic rooms, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Clean paint tools with mineral spirits.
Obtain the Best Appearance
When Painting New Fiber Cement SidingAs an engineered masonry material, exterior fiber cement siding offers exceptional stability, durability and strength. On this surface, a quality paint job will potentially stand up years longer than can be expected with even top quality wood siding. These guidelines will help you achieve the best appearance, maximum durability and the longest repaint cycle.1.Surface PreparationDepending on storage conditions and duration and time lapse following installation, the siding material may accumulate dirt or mildew and may exhibit efflorescence.Treat any mildew with a 3:1 water: bleach solution, leave on for 20 minutes and rinseRemove any dirt by scrubbing (detergent and water; rinse) or by power washing (water only); remove efflorescence by careful hand wire brushing; clean off residue2.PrimingFiber cement siding may be factory primed. While this priming is helpful in keeping moisture, dirt and mildew from penetrating the material during shipment and storage, there may be areas of the facing that are not uniformly and completely sealed. Accordingly, whether factory primed or not, for best performance:
Apply a quality exterior latex primer recommended for use on masonry. This will ensure:Minimized chance of efflorescence undermining or penetrating the finish coatUniformity of sheen development, particularly with satin and semi-gloss finishesUniformity of color, particularly critical with darker colors viewed at a low angleBest resistance of mildew growthAdhesion of the finish coat3.PaintingTop quality exterior 100% acrylic house paints are excellent for fiber cement siding.A satin finish will provide a rich, crisp appearance and will accentuate any texture or embossing in the sidingA flat finish will provide the best sheen uniformity in the event there is an unevenness or repairs made in the sidingApply by airless spray for maximum uniformityApply at 1.5 to 1.7 dry mils per coat; one coat for normal applications, two for maximum durabilityDiscontinue application by mid-afternoon to minimize chance of surfactant leaching
Apply a quality exterior latex primer recommended for use on masonry. This will ensure:Minimized chance of efflorescence undermining or penetrating the finish coatUniformity of sheen development, particularly with satin and semi-gloss finishesUniformity of color, particularly critical with darker colors viewed at a low angleBest resistance of mildew growthAdhesion of the finish coat3.PaintingTop quality exterior 100% acrylic house paints are excellent for fiber cement siding.A satin finish will provide a rich, crisp appearance and will accentuate any texture or embossing in the sidingA flat finish will provide the best sheen uniformity in the event there is an unevenness or repairs made in the sidingApply by airless spray for maximum uniformityApply at 1.5 to 1.7 dry mils per coat; one coat for normal applications, two for maximum durabilityDiscontinue application by mid-afternoon to minimize chance of surfactant leaching
Painting Trim
Written by Bronwyn Harris
Painting trim, whether interior or exterior, can be somewhat difficult because of the precision that is required. The main part of the process is the same for indoor and outdoor painting. When preparing to paint trim, the most important part is the prep, so make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you start.
Before painting trim, you will need a drop cloth, painter's tape or masking tape, sandpaper, primer, paint, and paintbrushes. Deglosser, caulk, and masking paper may be needed as well; a sanding sponge can be more useful than sandpaper, as sanding sponges are flexible and conform well to surfaces which are not regular. To clean a sanding sponge, just rinse the sponge with water.
Lay down a drop cloth to protect the floor or ground, and mask the perimeter of the floor if you are painting inside. The type of tape for masking the floor will depend on the type of floor. For wood floors, use medium-tack painter's tape, and for carpeting, use masking tape. If you are only painting trim and not the walls or ceiling, then those surfaces will also need to be masked. They can be masked with pregummed masking paper or low-tack painter's tape.
Next, scuff-sand all the trim that is to be painted if there is any gloss or semi gloss finish. In addition, you can apply deglosser with a paintbrush, to improve the bond of the new paint on the glossy surface. Drive any nail heads slightly below the surface, using a nail set and a hammer.
Primer needs to be applied to any wood that is stained, varnished, or unfinished. Wood that has already been painted does not need primer before painting trim. Always work from the top down, beginning nearest the ceiling. After the primer has dried, apply a thin line of caulk over any cracks that might be at trim joints or between trim and other surfaces. Smooth the caulk with a damp finger.
The next step in painting trim is to fill any nail holes, dents, or other depressions with spackle or wood putty, using a putty knife. After the putty is dry, sand the spots lightly. Finally, the trim can actually be painted! Two coats of paint is usually ideal for painting trim, allowing the trim to dry according to the paint instructions in between coats. If the walls are to be painted, it is usually easiest to paint the trim first, and then mask the trim with painter's masking tape before the walls are painted.
Painting trim, whether interior or exterior, can be somewhat difficult because of the precision that is required. The main part of the process is the same for indoor and outdoor painting. When preparing to paint trim, the most important part is the prep, so make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you start.
Before painting trim, you will need a drop cloth, painter's tape or masking tape, sandpaper, primer, paint, and paintbrushes. Deglosser, caulk, and masking paper may be needed as well; a sanding sponge can be more useful than sandpaper, as sanding sponges are flexible and conform well to surfaces which are not regular. To clean a sanding sponge, just rinse the sponge with water.
Lay down a drop cloth to protect the floor or ground, and mask the perimeter of the floor if you are painting inside. The type of tape for masking the floor will depend on the type of floor. For wood floors, use medium-tack painter's tape, and for carpeting, use masking tape. If you are only painting trim and not the walls or ceiling, then those surfaces will also need to be masked. They can be masked with pregummed masking paper or low-tack painter's tape.
Next, scuff-sand all the trim that is to be painted if there is any gloss or semi gloss finish. In addition, you can apply deglosser with a paintbrush, to improve the bond of the new paint on the glossy surface. Drive any nail heads slightly below the surface, using a nail set and a hammer.
Primer needs to be applied to any wood that is stained, varnished, or unfinished. Wood that has already been painted does not need primer before painting trim. Always work from the top down, beginning nearest the ceiling. After the primer has dried, apply a thin line of caulk over any cracks that might be at trim joints or between trim and other surfaces. Smooth the caulk with a damp finger.
The next step in painting trim is to fill any nail holes, dents, or other depressions with spackle or wood putty, using a putty knife. After the putty is dry, sand the spots lightly. Finally, the trim can actually be painted! Two coats of paint is usually ideal for painting trim, allowing the trim to dry according to the paint instructions in between coats. If the walls are to be painted, it is usually easiest to paint the trim first, and then mask the trim with painter's masking tape before the walls are painted.
How to Choose Eco-Friendly Paint
By eHow Home & Garden Editor
Chemicals released by some interior paints are called volatile organic compounds or VOCs, which eco-friendly paints can reduce or eliminate. Environmentalists and some health experts say VOCs add to indoor air pollution and may be carcinogenic. It's believed that even after a petroleum-based paint dries, it can emit VOCs for years afterwards. Read on to learn how to choose eco-friendly paint.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Step1
Know that low-VOC and zero-VOC paints must meet standards set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Low-VOC paints can have 200 grams of volatile compound per liter at the most. Paints with less than 5 grams per liter are considered to be zero-VOC products.
Step2
Understand that VOCs can be eliminated altogether if natural interior paints are used. Natural paints often incorporate plant dyes and minerals. For example, clay paint is made from minerals and water. However, the color selection for clay paints may be limited, and walls painted with them can't be washed if they get dirty; they must be repainted.
Step3
Consider milk paint as another natural alternative for interior paint that has been used for centuries. It's made from a milk protein, water, clay and pigments. It's a fast-drying paint that typically comes in powder form to be mixed with water.
Step4
Look for eco-friendly paints that meet Green Seal standards. Green Seal is a nonprofit organization that concentrates on improving environmental standards for many products, and it has developed a certification process for eco-friendly paints. Green Seal lists certified products and services on its website.
Chemicals released by some interior paints are called volatile organic compounds or VOCs, which eco-friendly paints can reduce or eliminate. Environmentalists and some health experts say VOCs add to indoor air pollution and may be carcinogenic. It's believed that even after a petroleum-based paint dries, it can emit VOCs for years afterwards. Read on to learn how to choose eco-friendly paint.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Step1
Know that low-VOC and zero-VOC paints must meet standards set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Low-VOC paints can have 200 grams of volatile compound per liter at the most. Paints with less than 5 grams per liter are considered to be zero-VOC products.
Step2
Understand that VOCs can be eliminated altogether if natural interior paints are used. Natural paints often incorporate plant dyes and minerals. For example, clay paint is made from minerals and water. However, the color selection for clay paints may be limited, and walls painted with them can't be washed if they get dirty; they must be repainted.
Step3
Consider milk paint as another natural alternative for interior paint that has been used for centuries. It's made from a milk protein, water, clay and pigments. It's a fast-drying paint that typically comes in powder form to be mixed with water.
Step4
Look for eco-friendly paints that meet Green Seal standards. Green Seal is a nonprofit organization that concentrates on improving environmental standards for many products, and it has developed a certification process for eco-friendly paints. Green Seal lists certified products and services on its website.
Consumer Reports - Buying advice Interior paint
Plenty of high-quality, durable wall paints are available to brighten your rooms. And you won't need to endure as many fumes as in years pastA fresh coat of paint is an easy, inexpensive way to freshen a room. Today's paints are significantly better than their predecessors of even a few years ago in several important respects: They spatter less, keep stains at bay, and have ample tolerance for scrubbing. They also resist the buildup of mildew (important if you're painting a kitchen, a bath, or a basement room that tends to be damp). Some are labeled low-VOC (volatile organic compounds).WHAT'S AVAILABLEMajor brands include Ace, Behr (sold at Home Depot), Benjamin Moore, Dutch Boy, Glidden, Kilz (sold at Wal-Mart), Olympic, Sears, Sherwin-Williams, and American Tradition by Valspar (sold at Lowe's). You'll also see designer names such as Martha Stewart and Ralph Lauren, as well as many brands of paint sold regionally.You'll find several types of paints for interior use. Wall paints can be used in just about any room. Glossier trim enamels are used for windowsills, woodwork, and the like. Kitchen and bath paints are usually fairly glossy and formulated to hold up to water and scrubbing and to release stains. Price range: $15 to $45 per gallon.HOW TO CHOOSEBegin with the gloss. The gloss level will affect your perception of the color. Flat paints and textured walls absorb light, so colors seem darker. Glossy paints and smooth surfaces reflect, so colors look brighter.Then choose a color. Take advantage of the various color-sampling products and computer programs to get the color you think you want. Most manufacturers now sell small samples of many paint colors, so you can test a paint without having to buy large quantities. Manufacturers also offer large color chips or coupons, which are easier to use than the conventional small swatches. Sunlight and room light can affect your perceptions, so check samples on different walls or at different times of day.Fluorescent light enhances blues and greens but makes warm reds, oranges, and yellows appear dull. Incandescent light works with warm colors, but might not do much for cool ones. Even natural sunlight changes from day to day, room to room, and morning to night.Many aspects of paint performance depend on the quality of the base and not on the particular color. We test each brand's pastel and medium bases as well as white. So if you want a medium or dark color, it won't matter whether it's red or blue or something in between. Its performance should track with our findings.Buy the top of the line. The paints we test represent the top of each manufacturer's line. Over the years, we have found that lower grades--typically dubbed good, better, or contractor grade--do not perform as well. If a top-line paint will cover all but the darkest colors in two coats, lower-quality paints might need three or four coats. That makes them a poor value. But plan on two coats even with a top-rated paint for best coverage.Match a paint's strong points to the room's use. Here are the most important considerations:
Stains are more of a problem with flat paints.
Heavily used rooms need a paint that can stand up to scrubbing. Our tests show that paints in every gloss level can perform well in this regard. Some low-luster and semi-gloss paints may change sheen when scrubbed.
Mildew can grow in any warm, humid room, not just a bathroom or kitchen. A paint with high mildew resistance won't kill existing mildew (you must clean it off with a bleach solution), but it will slow new growth.Sticking can occur with glossier paints long after they've dried. Books seem glued to shelves, and windows become hard to open. Most of the glossy paints we tested did not have that problem
Stains are more of a problem with flat paints.
Heavily used rooms need a paint that can stand up to scrubbing. Our tests show that paints in every gloss level can perform well in this regard. Some low-luster and semi-gloss paints may change sheen when scrubbed.
Mildew can grow in any warm, humid room, not just a bathroom or kitchen. A paint with high mildew resistance won't kill existing mildew (you must clean it off with a bleach solution), but it will slow new growth.Sticking can occur with glossier paints long after they've dried. Books seem glued to shelves, and windows become hard to open. Most of the glossy paints we tested did not have that problem
Expert Advice: Wall Color Selection
By Better Homes and Gardens
Painting expert Brian Santos discusses surefire techniques to help you on your color quest. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
Author Brian Santos
Q. How can I use paint color to trick the eye and solve decorating dilemmas, like falsifying the dimensions of a room? Brian Santos: Your paint selection will depend on the result you desire. For example, if you plan on painting the walls white throughout your home, use the same value of white in every room for a unifying effect.
Ten practical tips for perfect wall color 1. Use differences of scale and proportion to create interest in a room. Using all pale tints in a room can make the colors look weak and dull, using only midtones produces monotony, and a plan composed entirely of dark shades will feel gloomy. Combinations, however, create a dynamic and refreshing decor. 2. When painting each room a different color, paint spaces between the rooms, such as foyers, hallways, and staircases, in grayed-down colors to create transitions. 3. Pick a color for your home and use it in different amounts in each room. It can be the dominant color in one room, the secondary color in another, an accent in the third, and the color of an accessory in a fourth, for example. This technique will create harmony throughout the house. 4. Light colors are expansive and airy; they make rooms seem larger and brighter. Dark colors are sophisticated and warm; they give large rooms a more intimate appearance. 5. If you want dark or intensely colored walls, tint the primer the same color as the finish coat. 6. Camouflage architectural defects by using neutral paint colors that blend with neutral walls, ceilings, and floors. 7. Carry wall color up to the ceiling to raise the visual height of a room. If there is a crown or cove molding, paint it the same color. A light color also makes the ceiling seem higher. 8. To lower a ceiling or make a room feel cozy, stop the wall color 9 to 12 inches below the ceiling. You can also paint the ceiling a dark color. 9. Make a long, narrow room seem wider by painting the shorter walls a darker color than the longer walls.
10. To coordinate a room, tint white ceiling paint slightly by adding a splash of the wall color.
Painting expert Brian Santos discusses surefire techniques to help you on your color quest. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
Author Brian Santos
Q. How can I use paint color to trick the eye and solve decorating dilemmas, like falsifying the dimensions of a room? Brian Santos: Your paint selection will depend on the result you desire. For example, if you plan on painting the walls white throughout your home, use the same value of white in every room for a unifying effect.
Ten practical tips for perfect wall color 1. Use differences of scale and proportion to create interest in a room. Using all pale tints in a room can make the colors look weak and dull, using only midtones produces monotony, and a plan composed entirely of dark shades will feel gloomy. Combinations, however, create a dynamic and refreshing decor. 2. When painting each room a different color, paint spaces between the rooms, such as foyers, hallways, and staircases, in grayed-down colors to create transitions. 3. Pick a color for your home and use it in different amounts in each room. It can be the dominant color in one room, the secondary color in another, an accent in the third, and the color of an accessory in a fourth, for example. This technique will create harmony throughout the house. 4. Light colors are expansive and airy; they make rooms seem larger and brighter. Dark colors are sophisticated and warm; they give large rooms a more intimate appearance. 5. If you want dark or intensely colored walls, tint the primer the same color as the finish coat. 6. Camouflage architectural defects by using neutral paint colors that blend with neutral walls, ceilings, and floors. 7. Carry wall color up to the ceiling to raise the visual height of a room. If there is a crown or cove molding, paint it the same color. A light color also makes the ceiling seem higher. 8. To lower a ceiling or make a room feel cozy, stop the wall color 9 to 12 inches below the ceiling. You can also paint the ceiling a dark color. 9. Make a long, narrow room seem wider by painting the shorter walls a darker color than the longer walls.
10. To coordinate a room, tint white ceiling paint slightly by adding a splash of the wall color.
5 Ways to Connect Rooms with Color
By Better Homes and Gardens
Subtle yellow walls allow for vibrant accent colors to change in each room of the house.
Do the colors in your home play well together? If not, you might have a missing link.
Introduction Linking rooms with color may not seem very important if your rooms can be separated by closing doors. If you can see from one room into another, however, the color relationships between those rooms affect whether your living space feels smoothly harmonious or jarringly chopped up. Using unrelated colors in adjoining rooms can make the house feel like a disjointed series of spaces, while colors that relate to each other draw the eye from one room to the next and create a pleasing flow.
Creating a flow: In a house with an open floor plan or one in which rooms connect through wide openings, it's even more important to choose colors that relate to each other in a pleasing way. In this situation, the challenge is to give each space its own identity according to its function and still achieve a feeling of unity.
Fabric patterns are an ideal starting point for pretty color schemes.
Use a thread of color
Color cues Give each room its own color personality while ensuring a cohesive feeling by using a single hue as a theme that runs throughout.
Select your favorite: If you love lots of color, you can still achieve flow by choosing one hue to be a unifying thread that runs from room to room. Usually this unifying element is the woodwork -- baseboards, door and window frames, and molding at the ceiling. The connection can be more subtle, too, such as a recurring color in the fabrics, accessories, and furniture in each room.
You also can achieve a feeling of continuity by limiting your palette to two or three colors that you use in different amounts and applications throughout the house. Each color can be used in different values and intensities to produce a wide range of effects.
A green bedroom with pink accents crosslinks with adjoining rooms done in the same greens and pinks
Crosslink with colorNew houses often feature kitchens and great-rooms that connect physically and visually, separated only by a partial wall or counter. To paint each area a different color, use the partial wall or peninsula as the dividing line.
Unify the two areas by using the same trim color throughout, and reinforce that connection by bringing touches of each area's color into the other. For a smooth transition, choose two colors that are closely related and similar in value.
What's underfootIf you paint adjoining rooms in strongly contrasting colors, connect them by using flooring or area rugs that include both colors.
The wall and rug hues don't have to match exactly; one can be slightly darker or lighter than the other, and the eye will still perceive them as closely related.
Whether the walls are warm or cool, white trim keeps the room feeling airy and light-filled.
Unify with white trimPainting all of the trim throughout the house the same color of white isa no-fail way to create a sense of flow from room to room.
There are many shades of white, so select wall colors first, then choose a white that works with all of them. A sour-cream white contrasts crisply with bold colors and harmonizes with softer ones.
In developing the color scheme for your house, select colors that create the mood you would like to achieve. Link an area in your home with wallpaper to emphasize the area's openness and the way the spaces flow into one another.
White trim ensures that these spaces look connected, and reinforces the effect with subliminal cues or markers to make people feel anchored as they move through your house.
Choose a limited paletteOpen floor plans, whether in a suburban home, a condominium, or an apartment, allow architects to maximize the feeling of space without increasing square footage. That doesn't mean you have to paint all of the connecting spaces one color.
Give each area its own personality and achieve a unified look by choosing two or three colors that work well together and use them in varying amounts from room to room.
Try and Try Again: Getting just the right color may require several trips to the paint store until you get the right shade. It's important that the wall colors in adjoining spaces be of equal intensity so they balance visually. In the upholstery, rugs, and accessories, however, the color scheme can play out in a range of tones to create variety and interest.
Play with light It's a simple fact that light changes the appearance of any given color.
Take the same can of yellow paint and apply it to two rooms, one that receives little natural light and another that's flooded with sunshine, and it will look like two different colors.
To achieve a feeling of continuity and still give each room a subtly different feeling, exaggerate this effect: Choose two closely related hues and apply the lighter one to the sunniest space, imbuing it with a sunny feeling all day long. This works well for L-shape rooms, where one leg of the L is the living area and one leg the dining area.
Subtle yellow walls allow for vibrant accent colors to change in each room of the house.
Do the colors in your home play well together? If not, you might have a missing link.
Introduction Linking rooms with color may not seem very important if your rooms can be separated by closing doors. If you can see from one room into another, however, the color relationships between those rooms affect whether your living space feels smoothly harmonious or jarringly chopped up. Using unrelated colors in adjoining rooms can make the house feel like a disjointed series of spaces, while colors that relate to each other draw the eye from one room to the next and create a pleasing flow.
Creating a flow: In a house with an open floor plan or one in which rooms connect through wide openings, it's even more important to choose colors that relate to each other in a pleasing way. In this situation, the challenge is to give each space its own identity according to its function and still achieve a feeling of unity.
Fabric patterns are an ideal starting point for pretty color schemes.
Use a thread of color
Color cues Give each room its own color personality while ensuring a cohesive feeling by using a single hue as a theme that runs throughout.
Select your favorite: If you love lots of color, you can still achieve flow by choosing one hue to be a unifying thread that runs from room to room. Usually this unifying element is the woodwork -- baseboards, door and window frames, and molding at the ceiling. The connection can be more subtle, too, such as a recurring color in the fabrics, accessories, and furniture in each room.
You also can achieve a feeling of continuity by limiting your palette to two or three colors that you use in different amounts and applications throughout the house. Each color can be used in different values and intensities to produce a wide range of effects.
A green bedroom with pink accents crosslinks with adjoining rooms done in the same greens and pinks
Crosslink with colorNew houses often feature kitchens and great-rooms that connect physically and visually, separated only by a partial wall or counter. To paint each area a different color, use the partial wall or peninsula as the dividing line.
Unify the two areas by using the same trim color throughout, and reinforce that connection by bringing touches of each area's color into the other. For a smooth transition, choose two colors that are closely related and similar in value.
What's underfootIf you paint adjoining rooms in strongly contrasting colors, connect them by using flooring or area rugs that include both colors.
The wall and rug hues don't have to match exactly; one can be slightly darker or lighter than the other, and the eye will still perceive them as closely related.
Whether the walls are warm or cool, white trim keeps the room feeling airy and light-filled.
Unify with white trimPainting all of the trim throughout the house the same color of white isa no-fail way to create a sense of flow from room to room.
There are many shades of white, so select wall colors first, then choose a white that works with all of them. A sour-cream white contrasts crisply with bold colors and harmonizes with softer ones.
In developing the color scheme for your house, select colors that create the mood you would like to achieve. Link an area in your home with wallpaper to emphasize the area's openness and the way the spaces flow into one another.
White trim ensures that these spaces look connected, and reinforces the effect with subliminal cues or markers to make people feel anchored as they move through your house.
Choose a limited paletteOpen floor plans, whether in a suburban home, a condominium, or an apartment, allow architects to maximize the feeling of space without increasing square footage. That doesn't mean you have to paint all of the connecting spaces one color.
Give each area its own personality and achieve a unified look by choosing two or three colors that work well together and use them in varying amounts from room to room.
Try and Try Again: Getting just the right color may require several trips to the paint store until you get the right shade. It's important that the wall colors in adjoining spaces be of equal intensity so they balance visually. In the upholstery, rugs, and accessories, however, the color scheme can play out in a range of tones to create variety and interest.
Play with light It's a simple fact that light changes the appearance of any given color.
Take the same can of yellow paint and apply it to two rooms, one that receives little natural light and another that's flooded with sunshine, and it will look like two different colors.
To achieve a feeling of continuity and still give each room a subtly different feeling, exaggerate this effect: Choose two closely related hues and apply the lighter one to the sunniest space, imbuing it with a sunny feeling all day long. This works well for L-shape rooms, where one leg of the L is the living area and one leg the dining area.
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