Exterior stains are available in latex- or oil-based formulas. Unlike paint, no primer is needed. However, exterior stains will need to be reapplied more often than paint. There are two types of exterior stain:
Solid color or opaque stains have less pigment than regular paint but more pigment than a transparent stain. These stains allow the wood's texture to show, but not the wood grain. They are the consistency of a thin paint.
Semitransparent or transparent stains are thinner than opaque stains. These penetrating stains are formulated to allow the texture and the grain to show through. Differing degrees of pigmentation from clear to dark allow you to change the color of the wood. These products are close to the consistency of water. Some contain stain as well as a wood preservative.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Thursday, February 26, 2009
He who Paints in the Sun Should Not be Painting
by Dan Rowe of Rowe's Painting and Carpentry (Sayreville, NJ)
He who paints in the sun will not get the professional results they are expecting. Why? It is a "no brainer" paint whether oil or latex thinned out or not dries or cures from air temperature, slower in the shade and faster in the sun.The solvents or driers such as ASA (anti skinning agent), Colbalt, VMP Naptha, Mineral Spirits, Xylene, found in oil based paint evaporate at a much quicker rate when directly exposed to the sun.
Whether spraying, brushing, or rolling paint sets up much like frying a egg in a pan when painting in direct sun lite. This "setup time" will not allow the applicator to properly spread out or level the paint on the surface. The end result whether on wood, metal or siding is going to be rough in appearance.Before painting the exterior of any structure the painter must scope out the direction of the sun and its relation to the structure at different times of the day. He or she must work away from the sun! This most important when working on the roof painting the sides of dormers etc. The heat generated to roofing materials, most notably shingles, can reach temperatures well over 100 degrees.Painting in these extremes is self defeating in that the paint sets up too quickly to properly apply it. In turn making the outcome of the paint job look unprofessional.The painters tools react differently under different temperatures and don't achieve the same results when painting in the hot sun. Brushes cake up, rollers dry out, and spray tips clog faster. The pot life of the paint curdles faster which is detrimental. To obtain the best results of exterior painting is to Paint in the Shade!
He who paints in the sun will not get the professional results they are expecting. Why? It is a "no brainer" paint whether oil or latex thinned out or not dries or cures from air temperature, slower in the shade and faster in the sun.The solvents or driers such as ASA (anti skinning agent), Colbalt, VMP Naptha, Mineral Spirits, Xylene, found in oil based paint evaporate at a much quicker rate when directly exposed to the sun.
Whether spraying, brushing, or rolling paint sets up much like frying a egg in a pan when painting in direct sun lite. This "setup time" will not allow the applicator to properly spread out or level the paint on the surface. The end result whether on wood, metal or siding is going to be rough in appearance.Before painting the exterior of any structure the painter must scope out the direction of the sun and its relation to the structure at different times of the day. He or she must work away from the sun! This most important when working on the roof painting the sides of dormers etc. The heat generated to roofing materials, most notably shingles, can reach temperatures well over 100 degrees.Painting in these extremes is self defeating in that the paint sets up too quickly to properly apply it. In turn making the outcome of the paint job look unprofessional.The painters tools react differently under different temperatures and don't achieve the same results when painting in the hot sun. Brushes cake up, rollers dry out, and spray tips clog faster. The pot life of the paint curdles faster which is detrimental. To obtain the best results of exterior painting is to Paint in the Shade!
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Paint a Room
From: Martha Stewart
In theory, we all know how to paint a room. Dip a brush or roller in a color and spread it over the wall. But painting neatly and efficiently is a skill most of us could brush up on. We have a basic guide to the essential tips and techniques to get the job done.
Step 1: Filling the Cracks- Fill cracks with caulk and immediately smooth out with sponge before it dries.- Fill holes with spackle and let dry completely. Sand using a medium-grit paper.- Repair cracks with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh joint tape, apply joint compound, and lightly sand.
Step 2: Cleaning the Walls- Wash walls with a damp sponge.- Remove dust by wiping baseboards and floors.
Step 3: Priming the walls- Use white primer for light-colored paint.- Use tinted primer for dark-colored paint.
Step 4: Using a Brush- Paint part of a corner or around the trim with a 2-inch angled brush. This is called "cutting in."- "Cut in" with brush 4-foot sections at a time to avoid marks when paint dries.
Step 5: The "V" technique- Pour paint into reservoir of your roller tray and dip in one edge of the roller. Move back and forth until it's saturated but not dripping.- Paint a two-foot "V" and fill it in with tight vertical strokes.- Repeat, working top to bottom, until you've completed the wall.
Step 6: Storing the Leftover Paint- Transfer leftover paint to smaller airtight plastic containers, as leaving paint in an open cans dries it out.- Create labels with the name of the room in which the color was used, and keep the paint on hand for touch-ups.
In theory, we all know how to paint a room. Dip a brush or roller in a color and spread it over the wall. But painting neatly and efficiently is a skill most of us could brush up on. We have a basic guide to the essential tips and techniques to get the job done.
Step 1: Filling the Cracks- Fill cracks with caulk and immediately smooth out with sponge before it dries.- Fill holes with spackle and let dry completely. Sand using a medium-grit paper.- Repair cracks with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh joint tape, apply joint compound, and lightly sand.
Step 2: Cleaning the Walls- Wash walls with a damp sponge.- Remove dust by wiping baseboards and floors.
Step 3: Priming the walls- Use white primer for light-colored paint.- Use tinted primer for dark-colored paint.
Step 4: Using a Brush- Paint part of a corner or around the trim with a 2-inch angled brush. This is called "cutting in."- "Cut in" with brush 4-foot sections at a time to avoid marks when paint dries.
Step 5: The "V" technique- Pour paint into reservoir of your roller tray and dip in one edge of the roller. Move back and forth until it's saturated but not dripping.- Paint a two-foot "V" and fill it in with tight vertical strokes.- Repeat, working top to bottom, until you've completed the wall.
Step 6: Storing the Leftover Paint- Transfer leftover paint to smaller airtight plastic containers, as leaving paint in an open cans dries it out.- Create labels with the name of the room in which the color was used, and keep the paint on hand for touch-ups.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Painting Tips from the Wall Wizard
Not sure how to choose a color, prepare a room, or clean a paintbrush? Learn some practical and unusual tips from Brian Santos, the nation's favorite painting expert.
Tips for Painting Novices
Q. What are three things a novice should know about painting? Brian Santos: You might be surprised at the answer! Most of us might guess buying enough paint, priming, or prepping the walls. What do you think?
Expert Advice: Tips for Novices
Expert Brian Santos reveals the laws of painting. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. What are three things a novice should know about painting?
Brian Santos: It's time to lay down the law -- the three immutable laws of painting. These are the secrets of painting. Use them to control the paint in its liquid state. Understanding and utilizing these laws dictates the way you apply paint. To be a Wall Wizard, you have to master the medium, so it does not master you.
Law 1: Never paint out of a paint can.
Container contamination. As you paint, your brush picks up dust, grease, grime, fly boogers, spider snots, and other spots. When you dip into the can to reload, all that debris ends up back in the can, contaminating the paint. That causes flecks and specks in the paint finish.
Dangerous drying. If you ever have painted from an open, full can, you probably noticed as you worked that the paint became gooier, stickier, and thicker. This is the air reacting with the exposed paint, which is setting up in the can, not on the wall.
Material mover. A paint can is strictly a storage and delivery container. It was never designed to be painted from or carried around; it's too awkward and heavy. You are more likely to knock it over and spill it, especially the gallon size.
Law 2: Pour no more than 1/2 inch of paint into the container.
Material management. Pour only 1/2 inch of paint into a plastic bucket to stage and control it before application. This forces you to refresh the paint more often, keeping it in its liquid state for better flow and bond to the surface.
Lighter load. With only 1/2 inch of paint in your bucket, you carry less weight, work faster with better control, and avoid fatigue by the end of the job.
Spill spoiler. Because you have only 1/2 inch of paint in the bucket, if you happen to stumble, the paint is less likely to spill out. And if you do happen to spill, there's less to clean up.
Law 3: The enemy of paint is air.
Air wars. The air around us is the drying agent for paint. Paint doesn't dry in a sealed paint can, but the minute you open the can, air rushes in and starts the drying process. Limiting paint's exposure to air until the paint is where you want it to be is a way of controlling the project.
Oxygen factor. In simple terms, oxygen is the reactor that turns paint from a liquid to a solid. Exposure to air thickens the paint, creating drag during the application, producing brushstrokes in the finish.
Cap it. Reduce paint's exposure to air by immediately replacing the lid on the paint can. Cover your working container (bucket or tray).
How to Test Paint Colors
Q. What is the best way to try a color before you paint, and why does paint sometimes look different from the paint chips? Brian Santos: You probably selected the color by looking at it under a different type or intensity of light than what's in your room. Sunlight, daylight, fluorescent light, halogen light, and incandescent light affect colors differently. So bring the sample card into the room you intend to paint and look at it several times during the day. See how the color looks using different kinds of artificial light before making a final decision.
Low Sheen or High Shine?
Q. What's the best paint finish or sheen for my room? Brian Santos: One factor you must consider is sheen, the degree of light reflection off the painted surface. In other words, how much the paint shines. Sheen affects the finish's appearance, durability, and suitability for certain uses. As the amount of sheen increases, so does the enamel value, which determines the hardness or protective value of the coating.
Use Color to Solve Problems
Q. How can I use paint color to trick the eye and solve decorating dilemmas, like falsifying the dimensions of a room? Brian Santos: Your paint selection will depend on the result you desire. For example, if you plan on painting the walls white throughout your home, use the same value of white in every room for a unifying effect.
How Much Paint?
Q. How much paint should I buy? Brian Santos: If you're not a numbers person, the following steps may sound like gibberish. Just take it slowly and break out each step -- at the end you'll arrive at an accurate estimate for the amount of paint you need.
Selecting Paint Applicators
Q. What kind of paint applicators are the best? Brian Santos: You'll be tempted to buy a cheap, throw-away fuzzy-napped roller, but save yourself the headache! A 1/2-inch foam paint roller works faster, easier, and better. You can load three or four times the amount of paint onto the roller. Such porosity means less dipping into the roller tray, which means more coverage in less time. For smaller jobs consider a paint pad. It's a tool that has everything to offer: The pad's foam core holds three times more paint than a brush, has five times more surface area than a regular brush tip, and has bristles that are only 1/4-inch long, so the paint won't dry out. It splatters and drips less than a brush. Most pads even come with a plastic paint tray and airtight snap-on lid.
Blue Tape. Now What?
Q. How do you keep paint from seeping under the edges of masking tape? Brian Santos: The secret to keep this from happening is to heat-seal the tape. Run a tapered plastic tool quickly over the applied edge of the blue masking tape after you've set the tape. This heats the edge of the tape, the waxy adhesive on the tape melts, and when it resolidifies at the edge, it creates a barrier that prevents paint from seeping underneath the tape.
Speed Through Cleanup
Q. What's the best way to clean a paintbrush? Brian Santos: Taking care of brushes, rollers, and pads will save you time, energy, and money. Don't throw your tools in a bucket or sink and expect them to clean themselves; they'll be ruined, and you'll end up throwing them away and buying new ones. What household item can help you clean brushes and rollers in a flash?
Wallpaper: Paint or Remove?
Q. Is it easier to paint over old wallpaper than to remove it? If I have to remove it, what tools do I need? Brian Santos: It depends! Read more for advice and tips on painting, and removing, old wallpaper.
Crayon van Goghs
Q. How can I get crayon marks off painted walls? Brian Santos: With three children, I've tackled more than my share of crayon marks on the wall. The best way to remove these stains is to fold an old T-shirt into a pad several layers thick and place it over a crayon mark, then set an iron at medium heat and run it over the pad.
Tips for Painting Novices
Q. What are three things a novice should know about painting? Brian Santos: You might be surprised at the answer! Most of us might guess buying enough paint, priming, or prepping the walls. What do you think?
Expert Advice: Tips for Novices
Expert Brian Santos reveals the laws of painting. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. What are three things a novice should know about painting?
Brian Santos: It's time to lay down the law -- the three immutable laws of painting. These are the secrets of painting. Use them to control the paint in its liquid state. Understanding and utilizing these laws dictates the way you apply paint. To be a Wall Wizard, you have to master the medium, so it does not master you.
Law 1: Never paint out of a paint can.
Container contamination. As you paint, your brush picks up dust, grease, grime, fly boogers, spider snots, and other spots. When you dip into the can to reload, all that debris ends up back in the can, contaminating the paint. That causes flecks and specks in the paint finish.
Dangerous drying. If you ever have painted from an open, full can, you probably noticed as you worked that the paint became gooier, stickier, and thicker. This is the air reacting with the exposed paint, which is setting up in the can, not on the wall.
Material mover. A paint can is strictly a storage and delivery container. It was never designed to be painted from or carried around; it's too awkward and heavy. You are more likely to knock it over and spill it, especially the gallon size.
Law 2: Pour no more than 1/2 inch of paint into the container.
Material management. Pour only 1/2 inch of paint into a plastic bucket to stage and control it before application. This forces you to refresh the paint more often, keeping it in its liquid state for better flow and bond to the surface.
Lighter load. With only 1/2 inch of paint in your bucket, you carry less weight, work faster with better control, and avoid fatigue by the end of the job.
Spill spoiler. Because you have only 1/2 inch of paint in the bucket, if you happen to stumble, the paint is less likely to spill out. And if you do happen to spill, there's less to clean up.
Law 3: The enemy of paint is air.
Air wars. The air around us is the drying agent for paint. Paint doesn't dry in a sealed paint can, but the minute you open the can, air rushes in and starts the drying process. Limiting paint's exposure to air until the paint is where you want it to be is a way of controlling the project.
Oxygen factor. In simple terms, oxygen is the reactor that turns paint from a liquid to a solid. Exposure to air thickens the paint, creating drag during the application, producing brushstrokes in the finish.
Cap it. Reduce paint's exposure to air by immediately replacing the lid on the paint can. Cover your working container (bucket or tray).
How to Test Paint Colors
Q. What is the best way to try a color before you paint, and why does paint sometimes look different from the paint chips? Brian Santos: You probably selected the color by looking at it under a different type or intensity of light than what's in your room. Sunlight, daylight, fluorescent light, halogen light, and incandescent light affect colors differently. So bring the sample card into the room you intend to paint and look at it several times during the day. See how the color looks using different kinds of artificial light before making a final decision.
Low Sheen or High Shine?
Q. What's the best paint finish or sheen for my room? Brian Santos: One factor you must consider is sheen, the degree of light reflection off the painted surface. In other words, how much the paint shines. Sheen affects the finish's appearance, durability, and suitability for certain uses. As the amount of sheen increases, so does the enamel value, which determines the hardness or protective value of the coating.
Use Color to Solve Problems
Q. How can I use paint color to trick the eye and solve decorating dilemmas, like falsifying the dimensions of a room? Brian Santos: Your paint selection will depend on the result you desire. For example, if you plan on painting the walls white throughout your home, use the same value of white in every room for a unifying effect.
How Much Paint?
Q. How much paint should I buy? Brian Santos: If you're not a numbers person, the following steps may sound like gibberish. Just take it slowly and break out each step -- at the end you'll arrive at an accurate estimate for the amount of paint you need.
Selecting Paint Applicators
Q. What kind of paint applicators are the best? Brian Santos: You'll be tempted to buy a cheap, throw-away fuzzy-napped roller, but save yourself the headache! A 1/2-inch foam paint roller works faster, easier, and better. You can load three or four times the amount of paint onto the roller. Such porosity means less dipping into the roller tray, which means more coverage in less time. For smaller jobs consider a paint pad. It's a tool that has everything to offer: The pad's foam core holds three times more paint than a brush, has five times more surface area than a regular brush tip, and has bristles that are only 1/4-inch long, so the paint won't dry out. It splatters and drips less than a brush. Most pads even come with a plastic paint tray and airtight snap-on lid.
Blue Tape. Now What?
Q. How do you keep paint from seeping under the edges of masking tape? Brian Santos: The secret to keep this from happening is to heat-seal the tape. Run a tapered plastic tool quickly over the applied edge of the blue masking tape after you've set the tape. This heats the edge of the tape, the waxy adhesive on the tape melts, and when it resolidifies at the edge, it creates a barrier that prevents paint from seeping underneath the tape.
Speed Through Cleanup
Q. What's the best way to clean a paintbrush? Brian Santos: Taking care of brushes, rollers, and pads will save you time, energy, and money. Don't throw your tools in a bucket or sink and expect them to clean themselves; they'll be ruined, and you'll end up throwing them away and buying new ones. What household item can help you clean brushes and rollers in a flash?
Wallpaper: Paint or Remove?
Q. Is it easier to paint over old wallpaper than to remove it? If I have to remove it, what tools do I need? Brian Santos: It depends! Read more for advice and tips on painting, and removing, old wallpaper.
Crayon van Goghs
Q. How can I get crayon marks off painted walls? Brian Santos: With three children, I've tackled more than my share of crayon marks on the wall. The best way to remove these stains is to fold an old T-shirt into a pad several layers thick and place it over a crayon mark, then set an iron at medium heat and run it over the pad.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Pick the Right Exterior Paint
A guide to buying the right type and amount of exterior paint for your home.
Better Homes & Gardens
Characteristics/Use
Application
Latex
Easy cleanup, durability, and fast drying make latex the choice for amateurs; can be applied even over damp surfaces; naturally mildew-proof; may be incompatible with a previous oil-based finish.
Don't thin; apply with one stroke of the brush or roller; work it out too far and you'll get thin spots.
Acrylic
Actually a type of latex; a water-thinned paint that dries even faster than most and will cover just about any building material, including masonry and properly primed metal.
About the same as ordinary latex.
Alkyd
Solvent-thinned, synthetic-resin paint; has most of the same properties as oil-based types, but dries more rapidly; good over old oil- or alkyd-based coatings; excellent hiding power.
Thicker consistency makes alkyd more tiring to apply, but it levels better than latex.
Oil
Slow drying times (12 to 48 hours), strong odors, and messy cleanup; some professionals still swear by its durability.
Lengthy drying time makes bugs and rain real perils.
Primers
Seal new wood and metal with a recommended primer; generally, one coat of primer and one of finish is more durable than two finish coats; finish not to be used as primer or vice versa.
Priming usually is easier than finishing, but porous surfaces can soak up a lot of paint.
Stains
Solvent- or water-thinned types provide transparent, semitransparent, and solid finishes for natural wood siding and trim; some include preservatives or offer a weathered look.
Brush, roll, or spray on almost any way you like.
Specialty Coatings
Porch and deck
Choices include epoxy, alkyd, latex, polyurethane, and rubber-based; most work on wood or concrete floors and dry quickly; surface preparation varies; colors limited.
With most, you just pour on the floor, then work out with a long-handled roller or wax applicator.
Metal
Solvent- or water-thinned types in a wide variety of colors; include rust-resisting priming ingredients so you needn't worry about small bare spots; all-bare metal should be primed separately.
Brush, roll, or spray on for a broad range of finish effects.
Marine
Formulated for boats; provide a super-durable finish on wood and some metal trim; expensive, so not for big areas.
A gooey consistency makes them difficult to apply.
Masonry
Include latex, epoxy, Portland cement, rubber, and alkyd; some serve as own primers; seal masonry with clear silicone.
Latex is easy to apply; other types can be a lot
Features to Consider
The following characteristics vary among different types of paint, and can have a big impact on the success of your project.
Drying time and durability. Paints with oil and alkyd bases dry slowly, making them susceptible during application to insects and sudden rainstorms. Once they set up, however, they are exceptionally durable. Latex paints are easier to work with, dry quickly, and have a porous, "breathing" quality that minimizes most moisture problems. They do have a tendency to peel, however, if applied over an improperly prepared oil- or alkyd-based finish, especially if it's a "chalking-type" latex paint.
Chalking refers to a self-cleaning quality formulated into many of today's exterior paints. They shed dirt by gradually eroding with each rainfall. Usually, you can see the "chalk" on foundation walls, shrubbery, and your coat sleeve, if you brush against a painted surface.
Previous coats. Once wood has been covered with a water- or solvent-thinned product, it's best not to change types when you apply subsequent coats. It can be done, of course, but you may run into problems. If you're not sure what type of paint was used before, you'll probably be safest to use an alkyd-based paint.
Luster. In addition to deciding what type of paint you want, you also must specify the luster -- flat, semigloss, or gloss. (The word enamel often is used instead of semigloss or gloss.) Most people prefer a flat finish for large exterior expanses, and reserve semigloss and gloss for areas subject to hard use or for trim.
Time spent painting. If you plan to match or approximate the present color, any paint will cover in one coat. However, products sold with a one-coat guarantee are thicker, with more resins and pigments. Most guarantees specify that the paint must be applied over sound existing surfaces or primed new wood. You will pay more for a one-coat paint, but the extra money spent might pay off handsomely, especially in terms of time saved.
Better Homes & Gardens
Characteristics/Use
Application
Latex
Easy cleanup, durability, and fast drying make latex the choice for amateurs; can be applied even over damp surfaces; naturally mildew-proof; may be incompatible with a previous oil-based finish.
Don't thin; apply with one stroke of the brush or roller; work it out too far and you'll get thin spots.
Acrylic
Actually a type of latex; a water-thinned paint that dries even faster than most and will cover just about any building material, including masonry and properly primed metal.
About the same as ordinary latex.
Alkyd
Solvent-thinned, synthetic-resin paint; has most of the same properties as oil-based types, but dries more rapidly; good over old oil- or alkyd-based coatings; excellent hiding power.
Thicker consistency makes alkyd more tiring to apply, but it levels better than latex.
Oil
Slow drying times (12 to 48 hours), strong odors, and messy cleanup; some professionals still swear by its durability.
Lengthy drying time makes bugs and rain real perils.
Primers
Seal new wood and metal with a recommended primer; generally, one coat of primer and one of finish is more durable than two finish coats; finish not to be used as primer or vice versa.
Priming usually is easier than finishing, but porous surfaces can soak up a lot of paint.
Stains
Solvent- or water-thinned types provide transparent, semitransparent, and solid finishes for natural wood siding and trim; some include preservatives or offer a weathered look.
Brush, roll, or spray on almost any way you like.
Specialty Coatings
Porch and deck
Choices include epoxy, alkyd, latex, polyurethane, and rubber-based; most work on wood or concrete floors and dry quickly; surface preparation varies; colors limited.
With most, you just pour on the floor, then work out with a long-handled roller or wax applicator.
Metal
Solvent- or water-thinned types in a wide variety of colors; include rust-resisting priming ingredients so you needn't worry about small bare spots; all-bare metal should be primed separately.
Brush, roll, or spray on for a broad range of finish effects.
Marine
Formulated for boats; provide a super-durable finish on wood and some metal trim; expensive, so not for big areas.
A gooey consistency makes them difficult to apply.
Masonry
Include latex, epoxy, Portland cement, rubber, and alkyd; some serve as own primers; seal masonry with clear silicone.
Latex is easy to apply; other types can be a lot
Features to Consider
The following characteristics vary among different types of paint, and can have a big impact on the success of your project.
Drying time and durability. Paints with oil and alkyd bases dry slowly, making them susceptible during application to insects and sudden rainstorms. Once they set up, however, they are exceptionally durable. Latex paints are easier to work with, dry quickly, and have a porous, "breathing" quality that minimizes most moisture problems. They do have a tendency to peel, however, if applied over an improperly prepared oil- or alkyd-based finish, especially if it's a "chalking-type" latex paint.
Chalking refers to a self-cleaning quality formulated into many of today's exterior paints. They shed dirt by gradually eroding with each rainfall. Usually, you can see the "chalk" on foundation walls, shrubbery, and your coat sleeve, if you brush against a painted surface.
Previous coats. Once wood has been covered with a water- or solvent-thinned product, it's best not to change types when you apply subsequent coats. It can be done, of course, but you may run into problems. If you're not sure what type of paint was used before, you'll probably be safest to use an alkyd-based paint.
Luster. In addition to deciding what type of paint you want, you also must specify the luster -- flat, semigloss, or gloss. (The word enamel often is used instead of semigloss or gloss.) Most people prefer a flat finish for large exterior expanses, and reserve semigloss and gloss for areas subject to hard use or for trim.
Time spent painting. If you plan to match or approximate the present color, any paint will cover in one coat. However, products sold with a one-coat guarantee are thicker, with more resins and pigments. Most guarantees specify that the paint must be applied over sound existing surfaces or primed new wood. You will pay more for a one-coat paint, but the extra money spent might pay off handsomely, especially in terms of time saved.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Paint 101
Understanding color concepts and painting techniques will help you pick the right hues the first time -- and apply paint in a way that will last. Here are some tips to get you started.
From Simply Perfect Color Schemes
Surface Prep
Painting a wall is an easy way to add color to your rooms.
Here are some hints designed to help you achieve painting perfection.
Before you apply the first coat of paint, be sure the surface is clean, smooth, and dry.
· Sanding: Use 80-grit sandpaper to smooth out blemishes and surfacing compound to repair dings. Always sand the surfacing compound once it's dry and remove any dust.
· Washing: It's a good idea to wash wall surfaces before you begin, especially if you have sanded and need to remove the dust.
· Paint only dry surfaces. In damp weather, run an air-conditioner or dehumidifier or wait for more favorable conditions.
· Use a 2-1/2 or 3-inch flat brush to outline walls and ceilings and an extension roller to fill in the rest of the space.
· Paint ceilings before walls. Textured ceilings might require a sprayer.
· Load a brush by dipping the bristles one-third of the way into the paint. Lift the bristles out of the paint, then gently tap (don't wipe) them against the can's rim. The point is to load the brush just short of dripping on the way to the wall.
· Load a roller by dipping it into a tray full of paint and rolling it up the tray's ramp until the cover is saturated. Work in small sections (4-foot areas), rolling paint onto the wall in an overlapping W motion to prevent roller marks.
Brushstrokes
The key to applying a good coat of paint is choosing the correct brush.
As a basic rule, natural bristle brushes are best for oil-base paint, including stain, varnish, shellac, lacquer, and polyurethane; manufactured bristles are best for water-base (latex) paints.
If you prefer a very smooth surface, paint pads and foam rollers are excellent tools.
Cut down on some of the drips of paint by using a nail to punch several holes around the bottom of the paint can's rim. The holes will let paint drain back down into the can and keep it from pooling around the rim when you pour into a roller tray or smaller container.
· Determine the purpose of the room, then browse these guidelines to help you decide what type of finish to choose.
· Flat paints offer ideal, nonreflective surface quality. These paints are better suited for lower-use areas in the home or in new construction, as flat paints help mask surfaces to make them appear smooth and uniform.
· Eggshell and satin finish paints have a bit more sheen than flat paints and are ideal for places that need a cleanable but not shiny finish.
· Semi-gloss and high-gloss paints are ideal in spaces where wall surfaces need to be wiped frequently, such as the kitchen. High-gloss paints also produce the toughest and most stain-resistant finishes, so they also are ideal in children's bedrooms and bath spaces. TIP: surface preprartion is key to a successful high-gloss finish, since every imperfection will be highlighted with glossy paint.
· Oil-base paints have resins and thinners in them and are best used on chalky surfaces and over areas already painted with oil-base paints
· Many paint companies now offer small containers of paint to take home and try before committing to a gallon or even a quart. Always paint a few color samples on your walls (or on a sample board). View them in daylight and artificial light so you can see which color will work best in your room.
· The larger the room, the stronger the color appears. In big rooms, consider buying a lighter value of the hue.
· Apply two thin coats instead of one thick coat, which could dry unevenly and leave lap marks.
· In calculating the amount of paint needed, measure the perimeter of the room and multiply the result by the ceiling height to get square footage. (Don't deduct for windows or other openings unless they add up to more than 100 square feet.) Divide the square footage by the number of square feet the gallon of paint promises to cover. This will give you the number of gallons you will need.
Brush Lingo
ROLLER: A 1-1/2-inch foam paint roller allows you to load three or four times as much paint as other materials and will roll over any surface. Rollers won't splatter paint or leave residue behind.
MINI ROLLERS: Typically 4 inches wide, these rollers make it easy to paint small areas, and they apply paint as evenly as the larger versions. The smaller rollers are ideal for getting into tight corners.
PADS: These tools are good for decreasing splatters when applying paint to a surface. They work fast and are good for painting edges. The pad's handle can be attached to an extension pole for painting ceilings or high walls.
BRUSHES: Use a 2-1/2- or 3-inch flat brush to outline walls and ceilings (a technique known as "cutting in"). Use angled brushes for tricky areas that require more brush control.
From Simply Perfect Color Schemes
Surface Prep
Painting a wall is an easy way to add color to your rooms.
Here are some hints designed to help you achieve painting perfection.
Before you apply the first coat of paint, be sure the surface is clean, smooth, and dry.
· Sanding: Use 80-grit sandpaper to smooth out blemishes and surfacing compound to repair dings. Always sand the surfacing compound once it's dry and remove any dust.
· Washing: It's a good idea to wash wall surfaces before you begin, especially if you have sanded and need to remove the dust.
· Paint only dry surfaces. In damp weather, run an air-conditioner or dehumidifier or wait for more favorable conditions.
· Use a 2-1/2 or 3-inch flat brush to outline walls and ceilings and an extension roller to fill in the rest of the space.
· Paint ceilings before walls. Textured ceilings might require a sprayer.
· Load a brush by dipping the bristles one-third of the way into the paint. Lift the bristles out of the paint, then gently tap (don't wipe) them against the can's rim. The point is to load the brush just short of dripping on the way to the wall.
· Load a roller by dipping it into a tray full of paint and rolling it up the tray's ramp until the cover is saturated. Work in small sections (4-foot areas), rolling paint onto the wall in an overlapping W motion to prevent roller marks.
Brushstrokes
The key to applying a good coat of paint is choosing the correct brush.
As a basic rule, natural bristle brushes are best for oil-base paint, including stain, varnish, shellac, lacquer, and polyurethane; manufactured bristles are best for water-base (latex) paints.
If you prefer a very smooth surface, paint pads and foam rollers are excellent tools.
Cut down on some of the drips of paint by using a nail to punch several holes around the bottom of the paint can's rim. The holes will let paint drain back down into the can and keep it from pooling around the rim when you pour into a roller tray or smaller container.
· Determine the purpose of the room, then browse these guidelines to help you decide what type of finish to choose.
· Flat paints offer ideal, nonreflective surface quality. These paints are better suited for lower-use areas in the home or in new construction, as flat paints help mask surfaces to make them appear smooth and uniform.
· Eggshell and satin finish paints have a bit more sheen than flat paints and are ideal for places that need a cleanable but not shiny finish.
· Semi-gloss and high-gloss paints are ideal in spaces where wall surfaces need to be wiped frequently, such as the kitchen. High-gloss paints also produce the toughest and most stain-resistant finishes, so they also are ideal in children's bedrooms and bath spaces. TIP: surface preprartion is key to a successful high-gloss finish, since every imperfection will be highlighted with glossy paint.
· Oil-base paints have resins and thinners in them and are best used on chalky surfaces and over areas already painted with oil-base paints
· Many paint companies now offer small containers of paint to take home and try before committing to a gallon or even a quart. Always paint a few color samples on your walls (or on a sample board). View them in daylight and artificial light so you can see which color will work best in your room.
· The larger the room, the stronger the color appears. In big rooms, consider buying a lighter value of the hue.
· Apply two thin coats instead of one thick coat, which could dry unevenly and leave lap marks.
· In calculating the amount of paint needed, measure the perimeter of the room and multiply the result by the ceiling height to get square footage. (Don't deduct for windows or other openings unless they add up to more than 100 square feet.) Divide the square footage by the number of square feet the gallon of paint promises to cover. This will give you the number of gallons you will need.
Brush Lingo
ROLLER: A 1-1/2-inch foam paint roller allows you to load three or four times as much paint as other materials and will roll over any surface. Rollers won't splatter paint or leave residue behind.
MINI ROLLERS: Typically 4 inches wide, these rollers make it easy to paint small areas, and they apply paint as evenly as the larger versions. The smaller rollers are ideal for getting into tight corners.
PADS: These tools are good for decreasing splatters when applying paint to a surface. They work fast and are good for painting edges. The pad's handle can be attached to an extension pole for painting ceilings or high walls.
BRUSHES: Use a 2-1/2- or 3-inch flat brush to outline walls and ceilings (a technique known as "cutting in"). Use angled brushes for tricky areas that require more brush control.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
A Dozen Painting Tips
Before you choose a color, dip the brush, or get rolling, read these 12 easy tips.
From Quick and Easy Decorating
Pick the proper paint.
· Flat paint is the dullest of the sheens. It's best used in low-activity areas, such as hallways, living and dining rooms, bedrooms, and on ceilings. Of all the sheen options, a flat finish is best at concealing wall imperfections.
· Eggshell (sometimes called satin or low-luster) paint has a bit more shine to it than flat. It works well in kids' rooms, where easier-to-clean walls are often wanted.
· Semigloss paint has even more shine and reflective qualities than eggshell and is great for kitchens and bathrooms where moisture and cleanup are major considerations.
· Gloss paint is just that: glossy. It has the highest shine factor, so it should be limited to truly high-traffic areas. Because it highlights imperfections more than a lower-sheen paint, it's best when used on small areas, such as cabinet doors or trims.
Getting Started
1. Brush Basics Your brush options fall into two main categories: natural bristles and synthetic bristles. Use only synthetic-bristle brushes with latex paint. For oil-base paint, use either natural- or synthetic-bristle brushes. Brushes come in many shapes and sizes. Wall brushes (3 to 4 inches wide) will get the job done on large, flat expanses. Sash brushes are angled and usually 1-1/2 inches wide, making them ideal for detailed areas, such as the mullions on a window. Trim brushes have a 3-inch-wide straight edge that will serve you well as you cover doors and window frames. If a brush is tapered at the tip, it will hold more paint than a flat-end brush.
2. Roller Rules For paint rollers, follow the same rule as for brushes: Use only synthetic rollers for latex paint and either synthetic or natural rollers for oil-base paint. Another roller rule of thumb: The rougher the surface you're painting, the longer the roller nap should be. To test a roller's quality, squeeze it around the middle with your hand. It should return to its original shape quickly. If it doesn't, invest in a better roller.
3. Tape Talk Buy plenty of tape for your paint job. You'll want to tape off baseboards, moldings, windowpanes, and doorknobs -- anything you don't want to get paint on. Look for masking tape or painter's tape, which is a little more expensive but has a low tack, making it easier to peel off. Some rolls have a short piece of paper sheeting attached along one edge for extra protection. To avoid pulling up the new paint as you remove the tape, get out a hair dryer and give the length of tape a quick shot of air as you lift it: The heat will help prevent the tape from sticking to the finish underneath.
4. Drip Tip After you've pried the lid off the paint can, but before you start to paint, grab a hammer and tap a nail into the can's interior rim, creating a hole. Remove the nail. Now when you dip your brush into the paint and drag it across the edge of the can, the excess paint will go back into the can instead of building up in the rim and flowing over the edge.
During the Job
5. Where to Start To paint a wall, start with the edges, then fill in the center area. Because there could be variations between batches of paint, avoid starting with a new can of paint in the middle of a wall. Even a slight variation would be noticeable there.
6. Getting an Even Coat If you start brushing on the color and notice an uneven distribution of the paint, try this trick used by professional painters: Decant some paint into a new, smaller paint can (available at hardware stores and home centers). Clip a bit of a wire coat hanger and bend it across the top of the small paint can. Secure the wire by twisting the ends into the rim or wrapping them around the handle. Then, after you dip your brush into the paint, gently wipe the excess off along the wire instead of along the can's curved rim. Your brush will carry an even amount of color across the width of the brush, and you'll get more even results on the wall.
7. Handy Helpers Keep a clean rag handy to wipe up any drips or spills. Have a stash of inexpensive disposable foam brushes, too, for quick touch-ups. But don't be tempted to use them for the long haul; the foam will start to disintegrate and leave a mess on your wall along with the paint.
8. Be Patient When applying multiple coats of paint, allow the walls to dry to the touch between applications. Premature brushing of the second coat can ruin the job by pulling up the first coat of paint.
Easier Cleanup
9. Quittin' Time When you take a break or stop for the day, don't break your back trying to clean your brushes. Simply wrap wet brushes in plastic wrap or aluminum foil, take your break, then start where you left off. If you're quitting for the night, wrap the brushes and set them in the freezer. They'll keep until morning, and you won't have to waste time washing them out until the job is complete.
10. Brush Basics, Part 2 Soaking a brush makes it easier to clean. Drill a small hole near the metal band of your brush, then slide a large nail into the hole. Hang the brush over the top of a canning jar or small coffee can, and fill the jar or can with enough water or paint solvent to cover the bristles. After it soaks for a while, take it out and clean it. Once it's thoroughly cleaned, suspend it in the jar or can minus the water or solvent, and the bristles will dry straight.
11. Roller Rules, Part 2 If you're using a roller and tray for your paint job, spend an extra 50 cents on a tray liner. You'll save the time and trouble of rinsing and cleaning out the metal tray. Tray liners are available anywhere you buy paint supplies. Or make your own by lining the tray with aluminum foil before pouring in the paint. When the job's finished, carefully peel out the foil and toss.
12. Don't Touch Believe it or not, the curing process for a fresh coat of paint takes 30 days. Don't plan on washing your newly painted masterpiece for about a month.
From Quick and Easy Decorating
Pick the proper paint.
· Flat paint is the dullest of the sheens. It's best used in low-activity areas, such as hallways, living and dining rooms, bedrooms, and on ceilings. Of all the sheen options, a flat finish is best at concealing wall imperfections.
· Eggshell (sometimes called satin or low-luster) paint has a bit more shine to it than flat. It works well in kids' rooms, where easier-to-clean walls are often wanted.
· Semigloss paint has even more shine and reflective qualities than eggshell and is great for kitchens and bathrooms where moisture and cleanup are major considerations.
· Gloss paint is just that: glossy. It has the highest shine factor, so it should be limited to truly high-traffic areas. Because it highlights imperfections more than a lower-sheen paint, it's best when used on small areas, such as cabinet doors or trims.
Getting Started
1. Brush Basics Your brush options fall into two main categories: natural bristles and synthetic bristles. Use only synthetic-bristle brushes with latex paint. For oil-base paint, use either natural- or synthetic-bristle brushes. Brushes come in many shapes and sizes. Wall brushes (3 to 4 inches wide) will get the job done on large, flat expanses. Sash brushes are angled and usually 1-1/2 inches wide, making them ideal for detailed areas, such as the mullions on a window. Trim brushes have a 3-inch-wide straight edge that will serve you well as you cover doors and window frames. If a brush is tapered at the tip, it will hold more paint than a flat-end brush.
2. Roller Rules For paint rollers, follow the same rule as for brushes: Use only synthetic rollers for latex paint and either synthetic or natural rollers for oil-base paint. Another roller rule of thumb: The rougher the surface you're painting, the longer the roller nap should be. To test a roller's quality, squeeze it around the middle with your hand. It should return to its original shape quickly. If it doesn't, invest in a better roller.
3. Tape Talk Buy plenty of tape for your paint job. You'll want to tape off baseboards, moldings, windowpanes, and doorknobs -- anything you don't want to get paint on. Look for masking tape or painter's tape, which is a little more expensive but has a low tack, making it easier to peel off. Some rolls have a short piece of paper sheeting attached along one edge for extra protection. To avoid pulling up the new paint as you remove the tape, get out a hair dryer and give the length of tape a quick shot of air as you lift it: The heat will help prevent the tape from sticking to the finish underneath.
4. Drip Tip After you've pried the lid off the paint can, but before you start to paint, grab a hammer and tap a nail into the can's interior rim, creating a hole. Remove the nail. Now when you dip your brush into the paint and drag it across the edge of the can, the excess paint will go back into the can instead of building up in the rim and flowing over the edge.
During the Job
5. Where to Start To paint a wall, start with the edges, then fill in the center area. Because there could be variations between batches of paint, avoid starting with a new can of paint in the middle of a wall. Even a slight variation would be noticeable there.
6. Getting an Even Coat If you start brushing on the color and notice an uneven distribution of the paint, try this trick used by professional painters: Decant some paint into a new, smaller paint can (available at hardware stores and home centers). Clip a bit of a wire coat hanger and bend it across the top of the small paint can. Secure the wire by twisting the ends into the rim or wrapping them around the handle. Then, after you dip your brush into the paint, gently wipe the excess off along the wire instead of along the can's curved rim. Your brush will carry an even amount of color across the width of the brush, and you'll get more even results on the wall.
7. Handy Helpers Keep a clean rag handy to wipe up any drips or spills. Have a stash of inexpensive disposable foam brushes, too, for quick touch-ups. But don't be tempted to use them for the long haul; the foam will start to disintegrate and leave a mess on your wall along with the paint.
8. Be Patient When applying multiple coats of paint, allow the walls to dry to the touch between applications. Premature brushing of the second coat can ruin the job by pulling up the first coat of paint.
Easier Cleanup
9. Quittin' Time When you take a break or stop for the day, don't break your back trying to clean your brushes. Simply wrap wet brushes in plastic wrap or aluminum foil, take your break, then start where you left off. If you're quitting for the night, wrap the brushes and set them in the freezer. They'll keep until morning, and you won't have to waste time washing them out until the job is complete.
10. Brush Basics, Part 2 Soaking a brush makes it easier to clean. Drill a small hole near the metal band of your brush, then slide a large nail into the hole. Hang the brush over the top of a canning jar or small coffee can, and fill the jar or can with enough water or paint solvent to cover the bristles. After it soaks for a while, take it out and clean it. Once it's thoroughly cleaned, suspend it in the jar or can minus the water or solvent, and the bristles will dry straight.
11. Roller Rules, Part 2 If you're using a roller and tray for your paint job, spend an extra 50 cents on a tray liner. You'll save the time and trouble of rinsing and cleaning out the metal tray. Tray liners are available anywhere you buy paint supplies. Or make your own by lining the tray with aluminum foil before pouring in the paint. When the job's finished, carefully peel out the foil and toss.
12. Don't Touch Believe it or not, the curing process for a fresh coat of paint takes 30 days. Don't plan on washing your newly painted masterpiece for about a month.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Expert Advice: How to Ready a Room
Painting expert Brian Santos reveals simple ways to prepare your workspace. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. Can I just paint around switchplates and light fixtures instead of removing them?
Brian Santos: You've probably tried to paint around furniture and carpeting, but it always happens: You dribble or spill paint on something. That's why step one in prep work is to clear out the room. An empty room is an easy room to paint, so begin by removing everything that you can from the room. Gather anything that is left to one side of the room, away from your work area.
Next disassemble the room. First turn off the power to any outlets or fixtures on the surfaces you will be painting. Then remove all light fixtures, switch and outlet plates, heat registers, and towel rods -- anything you will have to paint around. This includes drapes (get them cleaned while they are down) and drapery hardware. Don't try to paint around the hardware; it is too frustrating and time-consuming. Just pay particular attention to how your window treatments are attached and make a diagram, if necessary, so you can reinstall them correctly and without guesswork.
Loosen the canopy or trim piece of a ceiling fixture or chandelier and slide it down the fixture away from the ceiling. Wrap it with plastic trash bags or plastic wrap. Never unscrew a fixture from the electrical box and allow it to hang by its wires. The wires aren't meant to hold a fixture's weight; there's the immediate danger of falling glass fixtures, as well as the risk that the wires could be damaged, creating an electrical short and a fire hazard later. A ceiling fan is impossible to paint around, so take it down.
Remove switchplates and outlet plates, and protect the switches and outlets themselves with blue masking tape to shield them from paint and moisture.
Place a work table in another room, or outside if you will be using solvents for oil-base paints. You can make a table by laying a piece of plywood or a flush wooden door over two sawhorses.
Starting thinking now: Cleanup is not what you do at the end of the job, it's what you do throughout your project. Place a large, lined trash can in the room to throw away debris as you work. A messy workplace is unsafe and can slow you down.
Quick Tips:
I used to have a bad habit of laying switch plates on the floor and losing them under the drop cloth, until I heard "crunch!" Then my wife came up with a brilliant use for resealable storage bags. As you disassemble the room, drop all the switch plates into one medium plastic bag. Remount screws back into their fixtures so they don't get lost or scratch the plastic plates. Separate the hardware for each window, door, and curtain into its own bag and mark its location in the room. Once all the hardware has been bagged and tagged, place the bags into one large bag with the room name on it. For safe keeping, stick the bag on the windowpane of the room with blue tape.
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. Can I just paint around switchplates and light fixtures instead of removing them?
Brian Santos: You've probably tried to paint around furniture and carpeting, but it always happens: You dribble or spill paint on something. That's why step one in prep work is to clear out the room. An empty room is an easy room to paint, so begin by removing everything that you can from the room. Gather anything that is left to one side of the room, away from your work area.
Next disassemble the room. First turn off the power to any outlets or fixtures on the surfaces you will be painting. Then remove all light fixtures, switch and outlet plates, heat registers, and towel rods -- anything you will have to paint around. This includes drapes (get them cleaned while they are down) and drapery hardware. Don't try to paint around the hardware; it is too frustrating and time-consuming. Just pay particular attention to how your window treatments are attached and make a diagram, if necessary, so you can reinstall them correctly and without guesswork.
Loosen the canopy or trim piece of a ceiling fixture or chandelier and slide it down the fixture away from the ceiling. Wrap it with plastic trash bags or plastic wrap. Never unscrew a fixture from the electrical box and allow it to hang by its wires. The wires aren't meant to hold a fixture's weight; there's the immediate danger of falling glass fixtures, as well as the risk that the wires could be damaged, creating an electrical short and a fire hazard later. A ceiling fan is impossible to paint around, so take it down.
Remove switchplates and outlet plates, and protect the switches and outlets themselves with blue masking tape to shield them from paint and moisture.
Place a work table in another room, or outside if you will be using solvents for oil-base paints. You can make a table by laying a piece of plywood or a flush wooden door over two sawhorses.
Starting thinking now: Cleanup is not what you do at the end of the job, it's what you do throughout your project. Place a large, lined trash can in the room to throw away debris as you work. A messy workplace is unsafe and can slow you down.
Quick Tips:
I used to have a bad habit of laying switch plates on the floor and losing them under the drop cloth, until I heard "crunch!" Then my wife came up with a brilliant use for resealable storage bags. As you disassemble the room, drop all the switch plates into one medium plastic bag. Remount screws back into their fixtures so they don't get lost or scratch the plastic plates. Separate the hardware for each window, door, and curtain into its own bag and mark its location in the room. Once all the hardware has been bagged and tagged, place the bags into one large bag with the room name on it. For safe keeping, stick the bag on the windowpane of the room with blue tape.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Expert Advice: Color and Emotion
Painting expert Brian Santos reveals color secrets and how color may affect how you feel about your space. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. I'd like my kitchen to be vibrant but want calmer hues in the bedroom. What colors are best for the different areas of my home?
Brian Santos: When selecting color for a room, keep in mind that each color has a psychological value. Review the following emotional correspondences and strive to make your design feel right as well as look right.
Red
Red is warm, bold, stirring, and energetic. In its pure form it can increase heart rate and raise body temperature. Use red in rooms where activity occurs, like a family room, or where sleeping and resting is not a priority. For a deep, instense setting, use other colors sparingly in a red room. The eye is drawn to red, so it also makes an eye-catching accent color.
Yellow and Orange
Yellow and orange are just as exciting as red, but they are more cheerful than bold, more bright than stimulating. Yellow and orange warm and enliven any room where they are used, but work especially well to brighten dark rooms. On large surfaces they are best used in light values.
Blue
Blue, the color of sky and water, creates fresh, cool, and restful feelings. Blue walls can make a south- or west-facing room feel cooler. Because it "recedes," blue also creates the illustion of space and distance, conjuring up emotions of haughtiness, formality, reserve, and sadness.
In spite of evoking such contradictory reactions, blue is a favorite because it is easy on the eyes and the nerves, making it an excellent choice for rooms where you want to relax or sleep.
Green
Green is the dominant color in nature. It is a pleasing, organic, fresh, calming, and restful color. It is a great color for any room where you want a relaxed and fresh atmosphere.
Purple
Purple is lush, regal, and passionate. It is an intense and highly emotional color, partly because it straddles the line between the warm red and cool blue. This makes it a difficult color to use in interior design, and it is usually confined to the role of an accent.
Black and White
Black and white are pure contrasts and intensifiers -- light and dark, yin and yang, all or nothing. Dramatic and elegant together, they lend sophistication in decor that is stylish and urban.
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. I'd like my kitchen to be vibrant but want calmer hues in the bedroom. What colors are best for the different areas of my home?
Brian Santos: When selecting color for a room, keep in mind that each color has a psychological value. Review the following emotional correspondences and strive to make your design feel right as well as look right.
Red
Red is warm, bold, stirring, and energetic. In its pure form it can increase heart rate and raise body temperature. Use red in rooms where activity occurs, like a family room, or where sleeping and resting is not a priority. For a deep, instense setting, use other colors sparingly in a red room. The eye is drawn to red, so it also makes an eye-catching accent color.
Yellow and Orange
Yellow and orange are just as exciting as red, but they are more cheerful than bold, more bright than stimulating. Yellow and orange warm and enliven any room where they are used, but work especially well to brighten dark rooms. On large surfaces they are best used in light values.
Blue
Blue, the color of sky and water, creates fresh, cool, and restful feelings. Blue walls can make a south- or west-facing room feel cooler. Because it "recedes," blue also creates the illustion of space and distance, conjuring up emotions of haughtiness, formality, reserve, and sadness.
In spite of evoking such contradictory reactions, blue is a favorite because it is easy on the eyes and the nerves, making it an excellent choice for rooms where you want to relax or sleep.
Green
Green is the dominant color in nature. It is a pleasing, organic, fresh, calming, and restful color. It is a great color for any room where you want a relaxed and fresh atmosphere.
Purple
Purple is lush, regal, and passionate. It is an intense and highly emotional color, partly because it straddles the line between the warm red and cool blue. This makes it a difficult color to use in interior design, and it is usually confined to the role of an accent.
Black and White
Black and white are pure contrasts and intensifiers -- light and dark, yin and yang, all or nothing. Dramatic and elegant together, they lend sophistication in decor that is stylish and urban.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Expert Advice: Proper Paint Amount
Painting expert Brian Santos reveals the formula for buying enough paint for your project. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. How much paint should I buy?
Brian Santos: If you're not a numbers person, the following steps may sound like gibberish. Just take it slowly and break out each step -- at the end you'll arrive at an accurate estimate for the amount of paint you need.
Simple Calculation:
1. Calculate the square footage of the surfaces to be painted. Measure the length and width of the room and determine its perimeter, which is the distance all around the room. For example, if the room is 13 feet wide and 18 feet long, its perimeter is 62 feet (13 feet + 13 feet + 18 feet + 18 feet).
2. Multiply the perimeter by the room's height to get the square footage of wall space. If the room is 8 feet high, then its square footage is 496 square feet (62 feet x 8 feet).
3. Count the doors and windows in the room. Subtract from your wall area 21 square feet for each standard door and 15 square feet for each standard window. (If your room has large doors, such as a sliding patio door, or large windows, you can measure the width and height of each door and window, then figure the exact square footage of each. You don't need to be precise; round to the nearest square foot.)
4. To find the number of gallons of paint needed, divide the wall area by 300 -- the square footage easily covered by a gallon of interior paint.
Quick Tips:
After that lesson in estimating, you'll be relieved to learn these tried-and-true Wall Wizard tricks.
A gallon of paint will cover about 300 square feet of wall area. Some manufacturers stretch it to 400 square feet, but go with the lesser amount to keep from running out of paint in the middle of a job.
Always buy more paint than you need. This extra amount allows for spillage, waste, and spots that soak up more paint than expected. Plaster, for example, is more absorbent than wallboard. Also, you'll want leftover paint for future touch-ups. Remember to buy extra paint if you plant to paint the interiors of built-in bookshelves or cabinets.
Another reason to buy more paint? Custom-mixed colors vary slightly from batch to batch, so it's best to buy enough paint at one time instead of running out and having to match the colors.
If you can't decide between 4 or 5 gallons, go with 5 and buy it in a 5-gallon container. It should actually be cheaper than three 1-gallon cans, and you're guaranteed the colors will be the same.
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. How much paint should I buy?
Brian Santos: If you're not a numbers person, the following steps may sound like gibberish. Just take it slowly and break out each step -- at the end you'll arrive at an accurate estimate for the amount of paint you need.
Simple Calculation:
1. Calculate the square footage of the surfaces to be painted. Measure the length and width of the room and determine its perimeter, which is the distance all around the room. For example, if the room is 13 feet wide and 18 feet long, its perimeter is 62 feet (13 feet + 13 feet + 18 feet + 18 feet).
2. Multiply the perimeter by the room's height to get the square footage of wall space. If the room is 8 feet high, then its square footage is 496 square feet (62 feet x 8 feet).
3. Count the doors and windows in the room. Subtract from your wall area 21 square feet for each standard door and 15 square feet for each standard window. (If your room has large doors, such as a sliding patio door, or large windows, you can measure the width and height of each door and window, then figure the exact square footage of each. You don't need to be precise; round to the nearest square foot.)
4. To find the number of gallons of paint needed, divide the wall area by 300 -- the square footage easily covered by a gallon of interior paint.
Quick Tips:
After that lesson in estimating, you'll be relieved to learn these tried-and-true Wall Wizard tricks.
A gallon of paint will cover about 300 square feet of wall area. Some manufacturers stretch it to 400 square feet, but go with the lesser amount to keep from running out of paint in the middle of a job.
Always buy more paint than you need. This extra amount allows for spillage, waste, and spots that soak up more paint than expected. Plaster, for example, is more absorbent than wallboard. Also, you'll want leftover paint for future touch-ups. Remember to buy extra paint if you plant to paint the interiors of built-in bookshelves or cabinets.
Another reason to buy more paint? Custom-mixed colors vary slightly from batch to batch, so it's best to buy enough paint at one time instead of running out and having to match the colors.
If you can't decide between 4 or 5 gallons, go with 5 and buy it in a 5-gallon container. It should actually be cheaper than three 1-gallon cans, and you're guaranteed the colors will be the same.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Prepare to Paint
Satisfaction with a finished paint job depends on careful preparation. In fact, 90 percent of your work must be done at the beginning stages.
From the magazine, Remodeling Products Guide
Estimating Paint Needs
Paint is a good thing, but you can have too much of it. And the paint store will not take back extra gallons of that lovely orchid tint you selected. For a rough estimate of how much paint you'll need, measure the room's perimeter (in feet) and multiply that number by the wall height in feet. From this result, subtract 20 square feet for each door and 14 square feet for each window. Divide that number by the spreading rate listed on the paint can. That's the number of gallons you'll need.
There's an Einsteinian formula for calculating how much trim paint you'll need, but most painters just figure it will be one-fourth what is needed for the walls. The main thing to remember: If it's more than two quarts, get a gallon; it's always cheaper.
Getting the Room Ready
Move Everything to the Middle
It's amazing how many people try to paint with a room full of furniture in their way. Try this method instead:
· Remove everything you can; cluster everything else in the center of the room and cover it with plastic or canvas drop cloths.
· Use more canvas to cover the floor; spatters and spills collect on plastic and smear underfoot, and plastic is slippery, too.
· Take everything off the walls, including covers for electric receptacles and light switches. (While you're at it, write the color and amount of paint you are using for that room on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the inside of the switch for later reference.)
· Cover stationary light fixtures with plastic trash bags (as long as the lights won't be on while you paint).
· Loosen all door locks, and remove door hardware.
· Gently pull all nails and picture hooks. Fill the holes with premixed surfacing compound using a 3-inch putty knife, or fill with quality paintable caulk.
Tape Tips
Use masking or painter's tape to protect every place you don't want paint, such as doorknobs, any hardware you couldn't remove, and windows.
There are two schools of thought about painting window muntins -- those decorative moldings that separate panes of glass on some windows. Some people tape the glass next to window muntins to minimize the time spent scraping paint off the glass, but others say it's faster to let a little paint touch the panes and scrape it off later with a razor blade. It's your call.
From the magazine, Remodeling Products Guide
Estimating Paint Needs
Paint is a good thing, but you can have too much of it. And the paint store will not take back extra gallons of that lovely orchid tint you selected. For a rough estimate of how much paint you'll need, measure the room's perimeter (in feet) and multiply that number by the wall height in feet. From this result, subtract 20 square feet for each door and 14 square feet for each window. Divide that number by the spreading rate listed on the paint can. That's the number of gallons you'll need.
There's an Einsteinian formula for calculating how much trim paint you'll need, but most painters just figure it will be one-fourth what is needed for the walls. The main thing to remember: If it's more than two quarts, get a gallon; it's always cheaper.
Getting the Room Ready
Move Everything to the Middle
It's amazing how many people try to paint with a room full of furniture in their way. Try this method instead:
· Remove everything you can; cluster everything else in the center of the room and cover it with plastic or canvas drop cloths.
· Use more canvas to cover the floor; spatters and spills collect on plastic and smear underfoot, and plastic is slippery, too.
· Take everything off the walls, including covers for electric receptacles and light switches. (While you're at it, write the color and amount of paint you are using for that room on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the inside of the switch for later reference.)
· Cover stationary light fixtures with plastic trash bags (as long as the lights won't be on while you paint).
· Loosen all door locks, and remove door hardware.
· Gently pull all nails and picture hooks. Fill the holes with premixed surfacing compound using a 3-inch putty knife, or fill with quality paintable caulk.
Tape Tips
Use masking or painter's tape to protect every place you don't want paint, such as doorknobs, any hardware you couldn't remove, and windows.
There are two schools of thought about painting window muntins -- those decorative moldings that separate panes of glass on some windows. Some people tape the glass next to window muntins to minimize the time spent scraping paint off the glass, but others say it's faster to let a little paint touch the panes and scrape it off later with a razor blade. It's your call.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Expert Advice: Paint Prep
Here's some paint additive and prep advice from home improvement gurus Heidi Baker and Eden Jarrin of Be Jane.
From Do It Yourself
Paint Additives
We posed our most perplexing paint questions to Heidi Baker and Eden Jarrin of Be Jane. These savvy DIYers dish out projects, products, news, and more advice at their Web site, www.bejane.com.
Dear Janes,
I am getting ready to paint most of my house and one of my friends was telling me about an additive that I should add to my paint. I just can't remember what it was she was talking about. Can you tell me what it is?Pam M.
Dear Pam,We can tell you about several beneficial additives for your paint:
1. Insulation. Insulation powders (Insuladd, www.insuladd.com, is one we like) can be added to most interior or exterior paints or primers. This additive helps keep your rooms cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Keep in mind these additives can reduce the sheen of a paint, so it's best to add them to your primer or your first coat of color.
2. Mildew Resistance. Mildew can be one of the most stubborn problems for painted areas, specifically around a bathtub or shower. You can add a mildew-inhibiting additive (such as ADD-2TM; www.zinsser.com) that will help alleviate this problem.
3. Fireproofing. One simple step to prevent a fire from spreading from room to room is to add an antiflame-spread paint additive to your paint. If a fire starts in one room, the additive will help prevent the flames from spreading to another. Be sure to check before you buy, however, as many of these additives work only with flat paint. Visit www.hytechsales.com for various fireproof paints and paint additives.
From Do It Yourself
Paint Additives
We posed our most perplexing paint questions to Heidi Baker and Eden Jarrin of Be Jane. These savvy DIYers dish out projects, products, news, and more advice at their Web site, www.bejane.com.
Dear Janes,
I am getting ready to paint most of my house and one of my friends was telling me about an additive that I should add to my paint. I just can't remember what it was she was talking about. Can you tell me what it is?Pam M.
Dear Pam,We can tell you about several beneficial additives for your paint:
1. Insulation. Insulation powders (Insuladd, www.insuladd.com, is one we like) can be added to most interior or exterior paints or primers. This additive helps keep your rooms cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Keep in mind these additives can reduce the sheen of a paint, so it's best to add them to your primer or your first coat of color.
2. Mildew Resistance. Mildew can be one of the most stubborn problems for painted areas, specifically around a bathtub or shower. You can add a mildew-inhibiting additive (such as ADD-2TM; www.zinsser.com) that will help alleviate this problem.
3. Fireproofing. One simple step to prevent a fire from spreading from room to room is to add an antiflame-spread paint additive to your paint. If a fire starts in one room, the additive will help prevent the flames from spreading to another. Be sure to check before you buy, however, as many of these additives work only with flat paint. Visit www.hytechsales.com for various fireproof paints and paint additives.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Expert Advice: Testing Paint
Painting expert Brian Santos says the key to testing paint samples is in the light. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. What is the best way to try a color before you paint, and why does paint sometimes look different from the paint chips?
Brian Santos: You probably selected the color by looking at it under a different type or intensity of light than what's in your room. Sunlight, daylight, fluorescent light, halogen light, and incandescent light affect colors differently. So bring the sample card into the room you intend to paint and look at its several times during the day. See how the color looks using different kinds of artificial light before making a final decision.
Quick Tip
To get an even better idea of what the color will look like in your room, purchase a small quantity of the paint and apply it to a white 24-x-30-inch foam-core board. When it's dry, you can move the board around the room, testing the paint in a variety of light conditions. Hold it vertically on the walls to view it. This method also lets you see how furniture and accessories in a room look when positioned against or next to a particular color.
When you've selected your color, cut an 8-1/2-x-11-inch piece from the foam-core board with your final color choice. Keep this sample with you when you shop to make it easier to match items to the paint.
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. What is the best way to try a color before you paint, and why does paint sometimes look different from the paint chips?
Brian Santos: You probably selected the color by looking at it under a different type or intensity of light than what's in your room. Sunlight, daylight, fluorescent light, halogen light, and incandescent light affect colors differently. So bring the sample card into the room you intend to paint and look at its several times during the day. See how the color looks using different kinds of artificial light before making a final decision.
Quick Tip
To get an even better idea of what the color will look like in your room, purchase a small quantity of the paint and apply it to a white 24-x-30-inch foam-core board. When it's dry, you can move the board around the room, testing the paint in a variety of light conditions. Hold it vertically on the walls to view it. This method also lets you see how furniture and accessories in a room look when positioned against or next to a particular color.
When you've selected your color, cut an 8-1/2-x-11-inch piece from the foam-core board with your final color choice. Keep this sample with you when you shop to make it easier to match items to the paint.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Expert Advice: Improve the Smell of Paint
Painting expert Brian Santos shares his secret for altering paint scent. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. I hate the smell of paint -- can you help?
Brian Santos: I've been painting all my life and I still do not like the smell of paint! Here's a tip: To every quart of interior latex paint, add four drops of vanilla extract. You can also use other extracts, such as peppermint, as long as the alcohol in the ingredients is methyl alcohol, which is formulated to mix with water. Do not use perfume or other alcohol-based fragrances; they won't mix properly with water-based paint. Unfortunately there's no similar trick you can use with oil-based finishes.
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard
Author Brian Santos
Q. I hate the smell of paint -- can you help?
Brian Santos: I've been painting all my life and I still do not like the smell of paint! Here's a tip: To every quart of interior latex paint, add four drops of vanilla extract. You can also use other extracts, such as peppermint, as long as the alcohol in the ingredients is methyl alcohol, which is formulated to mix with water. Do not use perfume or other alcohol-based fragrances; they won't mix properly with water-based paint. Unfortunately there's no similar trick you can use with oil-based finishes.
Friday, February 6, 2009
7 Things to Know About Paint
Good products, good preparation, and proper application are the keys to colors that last.
From Remodel
By Becky Mollenkamp
1. Spend more for quality. The accrued costs of frequent repainting cancel the "savings" you enjoy by buying the cheap stuff. Good-quality paints cost more because they have a higher percentage of titanium dioxide, which determines covering ability, and other additives that increase durability. The heavier bodies of high-end paints help them go on smoother, splatter less, and resist fading.
2. Look at luster. Sheen refers to the degree of shine. Generally, the higher the gloss, the better the finish will stand up to stains, abrasions, and cleaning. Choosing sheen can be a matter of personal preference, but there are some general guidelines to follow. Flat paint is widely used for ceilings but is not a good choice for walls in high-traffic areas. Eggshell works well in bedrooms, living rooms, and hallways where frequent cleaning is not needed. Easier-to-wash satin or semigloss paints are good choices for bathrooms and kitchens. Use high-gloss paints for trim, cabinetry, and doors that are in perfect condition.
3. Choose color wisely. Light colors tend to open up a room, making it seem lighter and more spacious. Dark hues add depth and/or warmth. Use a dark color on a single accent wall to create visual interest without making the room feel smaller. Before painting a room white, pay special attention to how surrounding elements will reflect light and alter the color. For example, red furniture or carpeting may make white walls look pink.
4. Test paint color before you buy. The only way to be certain about a paint color is to see it on the intended surface, surrounded by the room's other elements. Some paint manufacturers now offer larger paint chips, as well as in-store or online programs that virtually paint a digital image of your room. But the best test is to buy quarts or sample sizes of a few colors, paint small sections of a wall, and observe during different lighting conditions.
5. Use the right equipment. Choose brushes with long and dense bristles -- nylon for latex (water-base) paint and natural for oil-base paint. A 2-inch angled sash brush, a 3-inch trim brush, and rollers are enough for most jobs. For rough or textured surfaces, get a roller with a 3/8-inch or thicker nap; for smooth surfaces, use a roller with a nap of 1/4 to 3/8 inch.
6. Determine how much paint you will need. Some manufacturers include calculators on their Web sites to help you figure out how many gallons of paint to buy. You can also use this formula: Add the widths of the walls, multiply that figure by the room's height, and then divide the total by 350 (the square footage that 1 gallon typically covers). This formula doesn't factor in doors and windows, so you should have paint left over for touch-ups.
7. Do the prep work. Paint will cover more uniformly and adhere better to clean, dry, nonglossy surfaces. Scrape off any flaking paint, fill holes with spackling compound, and sand walls. Wipe off sanding dust, and wash dirty walls with a trisodium phosphate solution. Remove switchplates and other hardware, and apply a primer, which helps to conceal stains and ensure uniform color and absorption.
From Remodel
By Becky Mollenkamp
1. Spend more for quality. The accrued costs of frequent repainting cancel the "savings" you enjoy by buying the cheap stuff. Good-quality paints cost more because they have a higher percentage of titanium dioxide, which determines covering ability, and other additives that increase durability. The heavier bodies of high-end paints help them go on smoother, splatter less, and resist fading.
2. Look at luster. Sheen refers to the degree of shine. Generally, the higher the gloss, the better the finish will stand up to stains, abrasions, and cleaning. Choosing sheen can be a matter of personal preference, but there are some general guidelines to follow. Flat paint is widely used for ceilings but is not a good choice for walls in high-traffic areas. Eggshell works well in bedrooms, living rooms, and hallways where frequent cleaning is not needed. Easier-to-wash satin or semigloss paints are good choices for bathrooms and kitchens. Use high-gloss paints for trim, cabinetry, and doors that are in perfect condition.
3. Choose color wisely. Light colors tend to open up a room, making it seem lighter and more spacious. Dark hues add depth and/or warmth. Use a dark color on a single accent wall to create visual interest without making the room feel smaller. Before painting a room white, pay special attention to how surrounding elements will reflect light and alter the color. For example, red furniture or carpeting may make white walls look pink.
4. Test paint color before you buy. The only way to be certain about a paint color is to see it on the intended surface, surrounded by the room's other elements. Some paint manufacturers now offer larger paint chips, as well as in-store or online programs that virtually paint a digital image of your room. But the best test is to buy quarts or sample sizes of a few colors, paint small sections of a wall, and observe during different lighting conditions.
5. Use the right equipment. Choose brushes with long and dense bristles -- nylon for latex (water-base) paint and natural for oil-base paint. A 2-inch angled sash brush, a 3-inch trim brush, and rollers are enough for most jobs. For rough or textured surfaces, get a roller with a 3/8-inch or thicker nap; for smooth surfaces, use a roller with a nap of 1/4 to 3/8 inch.
6. Determine how much paint you will need. Some manufacturers include calculators on their Web sites to help you figure out how many gallons of paint to buy. You can also use this formula: Add the widths of the walls, multiply that figure by the room's height, and then divide the total by 350 (the square footage that 1 gallon typically covers). This formula doesn't factor in doors and windows, so you should have paint left over for touch-ups.
7. Do the prep work. Paint will cover more uniformly and adhere better to clean, dry, nonglossy surfaces. Scrape off any flaking paint, fill holes with spackling compound, and sand walls. Wipe off sanding dust, and wash dirty walls with a trisodium phosphate solution. Remove switchplates and other hardware, and apply a primer, which helps to conceal stains and ensure uniform color and absorption.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Painted Floors
Painting a floor can give form to a room where everything is function, offset the formality of a living room, and restore life to a tired stairway. It is a bit of trompe l'oeil underfoot -- a visual pun that plays to an entire room.These floor projects illustrate the point. Though painting is still a practical solution for covering less-than-perfect floors, particularly those in upstairs hallways and bedrooms where second-quality lumber is often used, it can also lend comfort or drama to a space. In lieu of rugs, an all-white floor can seemingly enlarge and soften a living room where the focus is rightly on the decorations. It gives the room sparkle and intelligence, and can be applied to a modern space as easily as to a classical one.Bear in mind that, in the grand tradition of folk artists and decorative painters, you will make mistakes. Most of these -- a squiggle, a hesitant stroke of the brush -- will be so insignificant they won't be worth bothering about. If anything, they'll give your project character, a human touch. But if you do make a mistake you don't want to live with, just wipe the area with a clean cloth, let it dry, and start over again.If painting a floor seems a more intimidating project than, say, painting a night table, it's a good idea to do your first one in an out-of-the-way bedroom or an upstairs hall. And try to remember that the same rules apply to painting a floor as to the rest of life. Be prepared. Don't expect perfection. And always leave yourself a way out.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Geometric Floor Pattern
From Martha Stewart Living
Painting a floor can give form to a room where everything is function. Before you start painting, take a long look at the shape of the room: The more complicated its layout -- the more radiators and hearths and pillars it has -- the less complicated the floor pattern should be. The home office pictured here, formerly a small bedroom, seems to be enlarged by a floor painted with oversize squares in closely related tones of blue and green.
Painting a floor can give form to a room where everything is function. Before you start painting, take a long look at the shape of the room: The more complicated its layout -- the more radiators and hearths and pillars it has -- the less complicated the floor pattern should be. The home office pictured here, formerly a small bedroom, seems to be enlarged by a floor painted with oversize squares in closely related tones of blue and green.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Painting the Ceiling
Martha Stewart Living
If you're getting ready to paint a room a different color, you might consider changing the color of your ceiling as well. Look to your furniture, upholstery, carpets, and artwork for color inspiration. If blue is dominant in your furnishings, you might paint the ceiling a light shade of blue and the walls and trim neutral complementary tones. Before your final decision, it's always a good idea to purchase small cans of your color choices and paint test swatches on your ceiling and walls. Then check those colors at the time of day when you plan to use the room because the quality of natural light changes considerably throughout the day. If you're not happy with one combination, try something else until you find just the right tones. When you're ready to paint, always start with the ceiling. Use a 3- to 4-foot extension handle on your roller to make painting the ceiling a lot easier.
If you're getting ready to paint a room a different color, you might consider changing the color of your ceiling as well. Look to your furniture, upholstery, carpets, and artwork for color inspiration. If blue is dominant in your furnishings, you might paint the ceiling a light shade of blue and the walls and trim neutral complementary tones. Before your final decision, it's always a good idea to purchase small cans of your color choices and paint test swatches on your ceiling and walls. Then check those colors at the time of day when you plan to use the room because the quality of natural light changes considerably throughout the day. If you're not happy with one combination, try something else until you find just the right tones. When you're ready to paint, always start with the ceiling. Use a 3- to 4-foot extension handle on your roller to make painting the ceiling a lot easier.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Stirrer Swatches
By Better Homes & Gardens
Memory never seems to serve very well when it comes to color -- especially when you're trying to recall the exact shade of your living-room wall while shopping for fabric and furniture. Here's a way to eliminate the guesswork: After stirring paints, let stirrers dry, then write the color and room on each. Pierce ends with an awl, and string together with twine.
Memory never seems to serve very well when it comes to color -- especially when you're trying to recall the exact shade of your living-room wall while shopping for fabric and furniture. Here's a way to eliminate the guesswork: After stirring paints, let stirrers dry, then write the color and room on each. Pierce ends with an awl, and string together with twine.
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