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How to Paint Wood Paneling

Preparation Is Key
If you're tired of the wood paneling in your home, you might want to consider painting it. While painting paneling isn't hard to do, proper preparation is important to allow the paint to adhere well.

Clean Paneling
Start by wiping the paneling clean with a damp rag to remove any dust or dirt. If grease or other problem stains are present, remove them using an appropriate cleaner, then wipe with a clean, damp rag.

Fill Nail Holes
Putty any nail holes or other imperfections with spackling compound. Allow to dry, then sand the spackling flush with the surface.

Sand Paneling
Sand the paneling with 100 grit sandpaper using a pole sander, sanding block, or orbital sander. This will take the sheen off the finish, which will allow the paint to adhere to it better. Don't get carried away and sand the surface down to the bare wood -- just enough to rough up the existing finish.

Sand Trim
Lightly hand sand the wood trim, such as baseboards and door and window facings, to allow the paint to adhere to it. Once everything has been sanded, go over the walls and trim with a clean, damp cloth to remove any sanding dust.

Caulk Cracks
Apply caulk to any cracks and gaps where the paneling meets the baseboard or around doors and windows. Allow the caulking to dry thoroughly before painting.

Protect the Surrounding Areas
Cover the floor with drop cloths, and mask any areas you wish to protect with painter's tape.

Choose a Roller Cover
Use a roller with a medium nap to paint the paneling. It should have a long enough nap to fill the vertical grooves in the paneling, but short enough to leave a smooth surface.

Paint Paneling
Prime the paneling with a latex, stain-blocking primer. To improve the hiding ability over the dark wood, tint the primer with colorant so it is similar to the finished paint. Once the primer has dried, topcoat it with two coats of latex wall paint.

Paint Trim
Prime the trim with a primer. Topcoat the trim using either oil or latex enamel as desired.

A Modern Look
While painting over paneling takes a bit of extra preparation, the end result looks great. And it involves much less work than tearing it out and replacing the room with drywall.

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Door and Window Casings

Casing Basics
-- Before installing, inspect the side and head jambs, the boards that line the edges in the wall opening and run perpendicular to the casing. The jamb edges should be flush with the wall surfaces.
--Leave a narrow portion (less than 1/4 inch) of the jamb edges exposed, this is the reveal.
-- Fit the lower trim components first. For doors, this means the plinth blocks at the base. For windows, it means installing the stool (horizontal shelf) and apron (vertical piece beneath window) before fitting the side jambs.

Casing Aids
This plinth block (an excellent aid to novice carpenters) at the base of door casing is where the side casing and baseboard meet. The moldings are cut square to butt against the plinth.
If the Shoe Fits
The gap where baseboard and floor meet is covered by a small piece of quarter-round molding known as a shoe.
Corner Adjustments
Test-fit outside corner pieces to reveal a gap that shows how much you'll need to adjust one of the angle cuts to compensate for the not-quite-square corner. If the joint is open on the outside as shown, cut both pieces at slightly less than 45 degrees. If the joints open at the back, cut both pieces at slightly more than 45 degrees.

Scarf Joint
For long wall sections that require multiple lengths of stock, splice the molding using a scarf joint, a simple overlapping of 45-degree bevel ends, positioned at a stud. Here, the left side of the joint is beveled away from the walls. The right side is beveled toward the wall. Attach the left piece and test fit the right piece. Apply wood glue and press the joint together. Drill two pilot holes through both ends (slightly angled into the joint), start the nails, and drive them in.

Basic Guide to Working with Molding

How to Cope
What is Coping?
Coping is the cutting of a contoured end to match the curved profile of a neighboring piece of molding. You'll cut away some of the angled end, following the contours of the profile, so it can nest against the face of its neighbor. The first step is to make a miter cut.

Using the Tool
Use a coping saw to cut away the bulk of the material at the angled end, following the profile. Cut just shy of the contour line, leaving a little of the end grain exposed.

File Down
Use files to do the final shaping, test-fitting the piece as you work. A slightly recessed (back-cut) angle on the end grain will help ensure a snug fit on the front.
Tip: Use the trim-and-try-again method. Cut boards a little long, test fit, and nibble at the board end as needed.

Test It
Test to make sure you have a tight fit for a smooth joint -- the line where the molding's curved face meets the end grain of the miter cut. That line is the shape of the molding profile.

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Basic Guide to Working with Molding

Better Homes & Gardens

Basic Cuts

Bevel Cut
Bevel cuts are diagonal cuts across the face of a flat piece of trim, especially at outside corners for baseboard or chair rails. Bevel cuts join the pieces of molding that form the frames.

Miter Cut
Miter cuts are used for outside corners, joining two pieces of trim with the ends cut at an angle. To make an outside corner, cut a 45-degree angle on one piece of trim with the saw blade angled to the left and one 45-degree angle on the second piece with the saw blade angled to the right.

Compound Miter Cut
Possible with some compound miter saws, the cut is both mitered and beveled. It's used to cut wide crown moldings that are too large to nest upright on a miter saw base, and it allows you to cut corners with the molding laid flat on the table saw and without reversing the board.

Basic Guide to Working with Molding

Molding Materials
-- Stain-Grade: Clear lumber suited to translucent finishes that show the grain -- relatively free of knots and other imperfections. Pine, maple, and red oak are the most commonly available wood species.
-- Paint-Grade: Lumber intended to receive an opaque finish, which conceals imperfections. Lesser grades of pine are typically used here, including finger-jointed moldings that consist of multiple short lengths of stock pieced together.
-- Engineered: Compressed fiberboard profiles covered with vinyl or wood veneers or primed to accept paint are readily available. High-density polyurethane profiles feature a smooth primer-coated skin and are stable and lightweight

Cut and Fit
Cut and fit the molding for one section of the room at a time, starting at an outside corner. Most right-handers prefer to work counterclockwise around a room.

Basic Molding Installation
Attach
Attach the molding as you go so you don't confuse placement of the pieces. Drill pilot holes in the molding every 16 inches. Use a hammer and finishing nails to attach the molding to the wall. With the hammer and nail set, lightly countersink the finishing nails. Better yet, use a pneumatic finish nailer, shown, which you can operate with one hand while supporting the molding with the other.

Basic Molding Installation
Caulk
Caulk nail holes, joint gaps, and seams where the molding meets the wall. Fill the holes with caulk and smooth with a putty knife. Squeeze a bead at gaps and seams. Smooth the bead with your finger and wipe away any excess. Let dry, then touch up with paint. Caulk minimizes imperfections, but is for painted molding only.
Tip: Paintable latex caulk is great because you can clean up smears with a rag and water.

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Decorate Your Walls with Molding

Better Homes & Gardens

Instant Art
Tall, flat-panel wainscoting is a cornerstone of the Arts and Crafts style.

Make a Statement
Popular in the formal living and dining rooms of traditional homes, raised panels make a dramatic statement when they continue up the staircase wall.

Classic Entrance
Beaded-board paneling is a favorite in classic cottage style. Commonly applied as wainscoting, it has a clean, crisp effect when hung floor to ceiling in mudrooms and recreational spaces.

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Decorate Your Walls with Molding

Better Homes & Gardens

Eye-Catching Elegance
Applying narrow strips of molding to suggest panels is a popular treatment known as picture framing. Frame sizes may vary to emphasize small spaces above doors and windows and large expanses for artwork. The key to eye-pleasing design is to keep the spacing between frames uniform and edges aligned.

Chic Paneling
Chunky boards applied horizontally around a room offer a creative, contemporary effect. Apply the same concept using beaded board for old-fashioned country charm.

Indoor Garden
For a wainscoting that blossoms with garden appeal, simply overlap square-edge, flat boards in a latticework pattern.

Classic Look
Wainscoting is called such because it covers only part of the wall. High wainscoting extends roughly two-thirds up the wall and is often finished with plate rail molding that features a groove to secure pictures or plates on display.

Decorate Your Walls with Molding

Better Homes & Gardens

Get a Custom Look
Standard boards used as millwork let you create a custom look personalized to your design style. Choose a simple pattern for a relatively easy project with big impact.

Mix and Match
For one-of-a-kind interest, pair triple-depth paneled wainscoting with walls painted with chalkboard paint for a charming bistro mood. A molding ledge along the bottom edge even holds chalk and an eraser.

Headboard Savvy
Although millwork often dresses entire rooms for architectural effect, it can make an equally stunning impact with a single strategic placement. Raised panels framed by molding create an impressive built-in headboard, for instance.

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Decorating in Orange

The Warmth of Orange
Orange may be the year's hottest color. Whether your main wall color or simply an accent, it's always warm, vibrant, and cheerful. Perhaps its time to give your home a dash of this hue's fresh appeal.

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Solvents, Thinners and Strippers Buying Guide

Lowe's


Which Do I Choose?
Once the type of finish is determined, choose the appropriate solvent, thinner or stripper to get the job done right.
If you are applying a finish to an existing finish, the effect of the thinner contained in the new finish will have is to:
Dissolve the existing finish.
Soften, blister or partially strip and separate from the wood.
Prevent bonding based on the base of existing finish (oil or water).
Strippers are easier to choose because by law manufacturers are required to list ingredients and their specific uses. It is very important to read the ingredients and manufacturers' specifications before purchasing.
The chart below includes oil-based and water-based finishing products:


Finish
Solvent
Thinner
Stripper
Water-Based Stain
Denatured alcohol
Lacquer thinner
Xylene (xylol)
Water (Never use more than one part water to four parts finish.)
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and varnish removers
Liquid paint strippers
Oil-Based Stain
Mineral spirits
Mineral spirits
Naphtha
Turpentine
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and Varnish Removers
Liquid Paint Strippers
Gel Stain
Mineral spirits
Methylene chloride and methanol
Boiled Linseed Oil
Mineral spirits
Mineral spirits
Naphtha
Turpentine
Methylene chloride and methanol
Danish Oil or Rubbing Oil
Mineral spirits
Mineral spirits
Naphtha
Turpentine
Methylene chloride and methanol
Wiping Varnish
Mineral spirits
Mineral spirits
Naphtha
Turpentine
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and varnish removers
Oil/Varnish Blend
Mineral spirits
Mineral spirits
Naphtha
Turpentine
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and varnish removers
Water-Based Polyurethane
Denatured-alcohol
Lacquer thinner
Xylene (xylol)
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and varnish removers
Liquid paint strippers
Oil-Based Polyurethane
Mineral spirits
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and varnish removers
Liquid paint strippers
Paste Wax
Mineral spirits
Naphtha
Turpentine

Liquid paint strippers
Shellac
Denatured-alcohol
Lacquer thinner
Alcohol
Methylene chloride and methanol
Liquid paint strippers
Lacquer
Denatured-alcohol
Lacquer thinner
Lacquer thinner
Xylene (xylol)
Methylene chloride and methanol
Paint and varnish removers
Liquid paint strippers

Solvents, Thinners and Strippers Buying Guide

Lowe's

Choosing the right solvent, thinner or stripper for your project can be somewhat confusing, especially if you don't know the type of finish.
Many people use the words "solvent" and "thinner" interchangeably, even though they have different meanings. Keep the following in mind when choosing a solvent or thinner:
A solvent dissolves a cured finish.
A thinner thins a liquid finish.
Some substances can be both a solvent and a thinner for a finish.


If You Suspect Your Finish Is:
Determine By:
Wax
Put a few drops of turpentine on the wood. If the finish dissolves, it's wax based.
Shellac
Apply a few drops of denatured alcohol. If the finish dissolves quickly, it's shellac.
Lacquer or shellac
Try a few drops of lacquer thinner to dissolve.
Water-based finish
A few drops of Xylene (xylol) liquefies water-based finishes.
Polyurethane or varnish
Paint/varnishremover strips these materials, but you'll probably still have to sand some of the old finish off.
Other Finishes You May Encounter (and What to Do About Them):
Penetrating oil
The product does just what its name says, so nothing can remove it. The color is not strippable since it has become part of the wood. If the wood is dry, it can be clear-coated, waxed or painted.
Paint
Determine whether the paint is oil-based or water-based (latex).
Rub a rag or cotton ball moistened with denatured alcohol on the paint surface. If it rubs off or gets soft, it's latex. Alcohol will not affect oil paint.
Latex paint can be applied over oil if the old surface has been lightly sanded and properly primed.

Vinyl covered or Formica surfaces
Do not attempt to paint or refinish. Cabinets surfaced with these materials should only be done by a professional.

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Choosing Faux Finishing Applicators

Lowe's

Choosing Faux Finishing Applicators


Many faux finish applicators are available to create different looks on walls, furniture and floors. The list below shows different applicators and their uses. Read on and find out what kind of magic you can create.


Types of Finishing Tools

Color Washing Brush
Creates a color wash finish.

Combing Tool
Creates a striped faux effect with narrow parallel lines in wavy, striped or crosshatched patterns.

Dragging Brush
Creates a wood grain look or effects like burlapping, weaving and waves.

Feather
Makes veins in marbleizing, draws leaf veins, vines and tendrils.

Mopping Mitt
Creates a medium textured finish while keeping hands dry and clean.

Ragging Cloth
Creates a soft textured finish.

Ragging Mitt
Creates a textured finish while keeping hands dry and clean.

Sea Sponge
Creates textured finish.

Softening Brush
Removes hard lines and gently blends colors in faux finishes.

Sponcer
Applies stenciling paint.

Stippling Brush
Creates textured, mottled effect.

Wall Weaver
Creates faux cloth finishes: linen, denim and chambray.