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How to Paint Anything

How to Paint Fabric


Tape preshrunk fabric to plastic-treated cardboard or a plastic cutting board. Use fabrics paint or an acrylic paint with textile medium added (both available at crafts stores). Apply the paint in several thin coats to work it into the fibers. Heat set if required. Your piece can be laundered with mild detergent after 10-14 days.

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How to Paint Anything

How to Paint Trim


Apply caulk to fill gaps between the trim and wall. Use a nail set and hammer to push nailheads below the wood's surface. Slightly overfill nail holes and dents with wood filler. Sand smooth when dry. Prime the trim. Paint vertical pieces with vertical strokes and horizontal pieces with horizontal strokes. Work on each piece from the bottom up.

How to Paint Anything

How to Paint Ceramic


Sand the surface lightly to ensure paint adhesion. Clean the surface with trisodium phosphate (TSP) cleaner to remove grease and dirt. When dry, apply a bonding or ceramic primer. Let the primer dry. Brush on latex paint in a gloss or semigloss finish. You also can use a paint formulated for ceramic or porcelain surfaces. Allow the paint to dry for several days and take care not to scratch the paint while it’s curing.

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How to Paint Anything

How to Paint Wood Furniture


If the surface is already painted or varnished, remove dirt or wax buildup with a household cleaner, then rinse. Sand rough areas and wipe away dust with a tack cloth. Apply two coats of stain-blocking primer and allow it to dry between coats. Roll or brush on two coats of latex paint in the direction of the wood grain. Use a brush to finish the surface with smooth strokes. Spray with clear polyurethane for extra protection.

How to Paint Anything

How to Paint Glass


Start with a clean, dry surface. If you want to use a pattern, tape it to the inside of the glass. With an artist's brush, follow your pattern, applying a thin layer of glass paint; this will yield a translucent, stained-glass look. For a more opaque finish, apply an additional coat after the first is dry. Paint slowly and gently to avoid bubbles. Using an artist's brush, seal the design with glass-paint varnish. If you're going for a pretty, frosted-glass appeal, use a varnish with a matte finish.

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HOW TO PAINT ANYTHING

Metal. Glass. Wood. Ceramic. Yes, you can paint it. We show you how.

Paint: Not Just for Walls
OK, so you're comfortable painting the walls. Now it's time to look around your digs and find fresh ways to employ your newly found confidence! Our step-by-step guide shows you how to paint just about anything in your abode. Look for the products mentioned here at your local crafts and home supply stores.



How to Paint Metal


Clean the surface with a stiff wire brush to remove flaking paint or rust. Wipe with a damp cloth and let it dry. Spray with metal primer and let dry. Use a paint specially formulated with rust inhibitors. Apply several thin coats of paint. If using spray paint, hold the can about 10-12 inches from the surface as you spray. Shake the can during the application to keep the color mixed. Spray lightly to avoid paint runs.

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Workers were very courteous & conscientious about their job. Willing to move or patiently wait on employees when needed. They did not waste time. They worked until the job was done. They did a fine job. The walls look great Thank you.

Cheryl Lewis, Southeast Atlantic Beverage 6/9/09


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Deeper Shades

“There is definitely a trend toward more use of color on decks,” Wilson said. One reason is that decks built in the 1980’s & 1990’s are aging, causing the color to soften. While cleaning will improve the color, it can’t bring back its original glory. “So people are using coatings that add color to the wood to compensate,” he explained. Wilson believes people are more apt to paint or stain their homes using deeper, more vibrant shades these days anyway. With the proliferation of home improvement magazines & TV shows, they are exposed to more possibilities, & with more experience, “they are more willing to consider a strong, bold color for their decks.” However, Wilson was quick to point out that nearly 40% of homeowners still want a clear finish only, not a color, to showcase the beauty of their wood.

Jacks is seeing a move toward darker colors in stains, particularly rich red tones that evoke the feel of teak & mahogany. “Decks have become an outdoor extension of the house, & the deeper, darker colors are much more like the furniture tones inside the home, “she said.

Guide to Paint Applicators

Painting can be a chore, but with the right applicator, the job is a breeze. Choose from brushes, rollers, paint pads, and sprayers.
Brushes

The brush is the most popular paint applicator. Brushes are easy to hold and relatively easy to clean. If used and cared for properly, they give an excellent finishes and waste less paint. A quality brush can last for years.
Brushes are available in two categories:
Natural bristle brushes are made with animal hair. Hog hair is regarded as best. Use with oil-based or alkyd paint. Clean brushes with paint thinner.
Synthetic brushes are made from nylon, polyester or a combination. They can be used with oil or latex paint. Clean brushes with mineral spirits (oil) or water (latex).
For latex paint, use synthetic bristle brushes only. Natural bristle is too absorbent to use with latex paint. Either synthetic or natural bristle can be used with oil-based or alkyd paints. It is always a good idea to check the manufacturers' recommendations before purchasing.
You can accomplish most paint jobs with a larger 4" brush for coverage and a smaller 2" brush for trim work and cutting in around corners.
A smooth finish depends on the bristles. When purchasing a quality paintbrush:
Inspect the tips of the bristles. A good natural-bristle brush is flagged, having split ends on the tips. The good synthetic ones have fuzzy-looking tips.
Look to see if the bristles are trimmed to a tapered chisel-shaped end, not flat.
Tap the ferrule (the aluminum or stainless steel band) and make sure that no bristles will fall out. The ferrule should be tightly wrapped and secured around the brush handle. Cheap brushes will lose their bristles. A rusty ferrule can also discolor paint if dipped into the can.
Handle styles will vary — from wider sizes to fit palms to small pencil-sized ones for precision work.
Disposable brushes are an inexpensive alternative that can be discarded after the job is done, eliminating clean up. Keep in mind that cheaper brushes will lose their bristles faster, marring an otherwise perfect finish.
Brush tips:
Dampen a synthetic brush before use. Paint will be less likely to dry on the brush.
Don't overload a brush with paint. The application will be smoother and less wasteful.
Paint with the brush at 45-degree angle to maximize the bristle's surface area.
For a better finish, paint from the area just painted towards the unpainted area. Painters call this "wet to dry".
Dip the bristles one-third of the way into the paint; any deeper will waste paint. Tap the side of the brush on the inside of the can to remove excess paint.
If you need to stop for an hour or so, position the brush in the paint to cover the bristle tips. For longer interruptions, wrap the brush in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and put it in the freezer for oil-based paints. If you're using latex, the refrigerator will be fine.
Before cleaning, remove remaining paint by stroking the brush back and forth on newspaper. Before storing, remove paint with the proper thinner.
Rollers

Rollers are the tools of choice when you have a large area to cover. Rollers will use more paint than a brush. Ceilings and interior/exterior walls can be covered with much less time and effort, but as with brushes, you must choose the correct type.
Rollers are also available in two categories:
Natural - Oil-based paints work best with natural materials, such as mohair or lambswool.
Synthetic — these rollers are made of nylon, polyester, or a combination. Use with water-based paints.
For latex paint, use synthetic materials only. Natural material is too absorbent to use with latex paint. Either synthetic or natural material can be used with oil-based or alkyd paints. It is always a good idea to check the manufacturers' recommendations before purchasing.
Nap (or pile) is the length of the roller's painting surface. Lengths will vary from 1/16" to 1 1/2". Choose the correct nap for the paint job. If you're painting a smooth surface, choose a short napped roller. For a rough surface such as masonry, use a longer nap. Rollers with textured surfaces are also available for special fashion finishes.
Rollers come in widths from 4 to 18 inches. The metal frame for the roller cover comes in two types — birdcage and metal. The birdcage frame works better if you're using fast-drying paints, as it cleans up more easily than the solid-metal type. Most handles are made for attaching an extension.
Trim rollers come in varying shapes and sizes. Cone-shaped types work well in inside corners. Doughnut-style rollers paint moldings and other fine work.
When purchasing a quality roller:
Look for beveled edges on the roller for a smooth finish.
Check to make sure the roller has no visible seams.
Give it a squeeze — it should rebound to its original shape.
Roller tips
Moisten before use with water or thinner to prevent paint from drying on the roller.
Load the roller with paint from the slanted edge of the tray to prevent overloading.
Paint in shape of the letter M. Start by moving the roller away from you. Without lifting the roller from the wall, fill in the open space.
Don't try to paint too quickly.
To clean a roller cover, roll it back and forth on newspaper. Remove paint with the proper thinner. If you're rinsing out solvent-based paint, wear rubber gloves. Let it dry before storing.
Disposable rollers are available. If you don't plan on repainting soon, you may want to use these to avoid cleanup (especially when using oil-based paint).
Pads
Pad and sponge painters are made in a variety of shapes and sizes. Pads can be useful in tight spots; however, they hold less paint than conventional brushes and rollers.
Painting strokes must be all in one direction. Never paint back over the just-painted area.
Pads can be washable or disposable. It's also a good idea to use a tray when painting with pads.
Powered Painters and Sprayers
Power painters are available in gas-powered, electric or cordless models.
Professionals use compressed air systems.
Airless units are the most common for the do-it yourselfer. In an airless model, the paint is pumped to the applicator, eliminating the need to reach to a bucket or tray to reload.
Applicators are available in various sizes and types of brushes, rollers, and the spray nozzle type.
Power rollers offer fingertip control of the paint supply. Once you get the hang of it, they can cover a room quickly.
Sprayers offer the best coverage, but expect more wasted paint than with a hand- powered paint applicator. Sprayed paint will dry quickly. Because of the small opening, spray nozzles can clog. When you're finished, there will be a lot of parts to clean.
Sprayer Pointers
Power spray painters require a steady hand. Hold the applicator parallel to wall when using.
Invest in drop cloths and tape.
Sprayers are available in various sizes and power ratings for specific needs, including paint and stains
What else?
You are certainly not limited to these applicators. Special designer finishes use a variety of applicators — everything from diapers and grocery bags to sponges and feathers.
Other needful things
Gadgets and time-savers abound, from drip guards to drill-operated paint stirrers to brush and roller spinners. Use your own judgment on these, but here are a few accessories you will be glad you picked up:
Drop cloths save countless hours of cleanup, not to mention saving things that just aren't meant to be painted, such as sofas and carpet.
A tray is must for a roller, but also a good paint holder when using a painting pad.
Unless you enjoy scraping windows, painter's tape should be part of your painting toolbox. Always use painter's tape instead of masking tape. Painter's tape allows you to keep areas covered for up to 3 days. If you let masking tape stick around that long, you'll end up pulling off part of your finish.
For safety and easier painting, the proper step stool or ladder is essential.
An edger or painter's shield is a simple straightedge with a handle that enables you to make clean cut-ins where walls meet ceilings.
Using an extension handle for your roller may be just the trick when you need to extend your reach. Make sure your roller will accept a screw-in extender and that the extender is stiff enough to give you enough leverage to apply the paint.

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Expert Advice: Testing Paint

Painting expert Brian Santos says the key to testing paint samples is in the light. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard


Author Brian Santos
Q. What is the best way to try a color before you paint, and why does paint sometimes look different from the paint chips?
Brian Santos: You probably selected the color by looking at it under a different type or intensity of light than what's in your room. Sunlight, daylight, fluorescent light, halogen light, and incandescent light affect colors differently. So bring the sample card into the room you intend to paint and look at its several times during the day. See how the color looks using different kinds of artificial light before making a final decision.


Quick Tip
To get an even better idea of what the color will look like in your room, purchase a small quantity of the paint and apply it to a white 24-x-30-inch foam-core board. When it's dry, you can move the board around the room, testing the paint in a variety of light conditions. Hold it vertically on the walls to view it. This method also lets you see how furniture and accessories in a room look when positioned against or next to a particular color.
When you've selected your color, cut an 8-1/2-x-11-inch piece from the foam-core board with your final color choice. Keep this sample with you when you shop to make it easier to match items to the paint.

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Best paint work we have had. Great painters, nice guys too. Thanks!

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“Don’t have an ugly house” Call RiverKing Painting
“We make you look good” guaranteed RiverKingPainting.com
RiverKing Custom Painting 850-893-0168 RiverKingPainting.com
3501 Martin Hurst Rd, Tallahassee, FL 32312

Obtain the Best Appearance

In Consumer Tips and Information Pages
When Painting New Fiber Cement SidingAs an engineered masonry material, exterior fiber cement siding offers exceptional stability, durability and strength. On this surface, a quality paint job will potentially stand up years longer than can be expected with even top quality wood siding. These guidelines will help you achieve the best appearance, maximum durability and the longest repaint cycle.1.Surface PreparationDepending on storage conditions and duration and time lapse following installation, the siding material may accumulate dirt or mildew and may exhibit efflorescence.Treat any mildew with a 3:1 water: bleach solution, leave on for 20 minutes and rinseRemove any dirt by scrubbing (detergent and water; rinse) or by power washing (water only); remove efflorescence by careful hand wire brushing; clean off residue2.PrimingFiber cement siding may be factory primed. While this priming is helpful in keeping moisture, dirt and mildew from penetrating the material during shipment and storage, there may be areas of the facing that are not uniformly and completely sealed. Accordingly, whether factory primed or not, for best performance:Apply a quality exterior latex primer recommended for use on masonry. This will ensure:Minimized chance of efflorescence undermining or penetrating the finish coatUniformity of sheen development, particularly with satin and semi-gloss finishesUniformity of color, particularly critical with darker colors viewed at a low angleBest resistance of mildew growthAdhesion of the finish coat3.PaintingTop quality exterior 100% acrylic house paints are excellent for fiber cement siding.A satin finish will provide a rich, crisp appearance and will accentuate any texture or embossing in the sidingA flat finish will provide the best sheen uniformity in the event there is an unevenness or repairs made in the sidingApply by airless spray for maximum uniformityApply at 1.5 to 1.7 dry mils per coat; one coat for normal applications, two for maximum durabilityDiscontinue application by mid-afternoon to minimize chance of surfactant leaching

Painting Trim

Written by Bronwyn Harris
Painting trim, whether interior or exterior, can be somewhat difficult because of the precision that is required. The main part of the process is the same for indoor and outdoor painting. When preparing to paint trim, the most important part is the prep, so make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you start.
Before painting trim, you will need a drop cloth, painter's tape or masking tape, sandpaper, primer, paint, and paintbrushes. Deglosser, caulk, and masking paper may be needed as well; a sanding sponge can be more useful than sandpaper, as sanding sponges are flexible and conform well to surfaces which are not regular. To clean a sanding sponge, just rinse the sponge with water.
Lay down a drop cloth to protect the floor or ground, and mask the perimeter of the floor if you are painting inside. The type of tape for masking the floor will depend on the type of floor. For wood floors, use medium-tack painter's tape, and for carpeting, use masking tape. If you are only painting trim and not the walls or ceiling, then those surfaces will also need to be masked. They can be masked with pregummed masking paper or low-tack painter's tape.
Next, scuff-sand all the trim that is to be painted if there is any gloss or semi gloss finish. In addition, you can apply deglosser with a paintbrush, to improve the bond of the new paint on the glossy surface. Drive any nail heads slightly below the surface, using a nail set and a hammer.
Primer needs to be applied to any wood that is stained, varnished, or unfinished. Wood that has already been painted does not need primer before painting trim. Always work from the top down, beginning nearest the ceiling. After the primer has dried, apply a thin line of caulk over any cracks that might be at trim joints or between trim and other surfaces. Smooth the caulk with a damp finger.
The next step in painting trim is to fill any nail holes, dents, or other depressions with spackle or wood putty, using a putty knife. After the putty is dry, sand the spots lightly. Finally, the trim can actually be painted! Two coats of paint is usually ideal for painting trim, allowing the trim to dry according to the paint instructions in between coats. If the walls are to be painted, it is usually easiest to paint the trim first, and then mask the trim with painter's masking tape before the walls are painted.

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RiverKing Custom Painting 100% satisfaction guaranteed RiverKingPainting.com
Don’t Have An Ugly House – Call RiverKing Painting
Paint your house great colors on our website RiverKingPainting.com
RiverKing Custom Painting 3501 Martin Hurst Rd, Tallahassee 32312
850-893-0168 We Make You Look Good – Guaranteed!
RiverKingPainting.com

Expert Advice: Testing Paint

Painting expert Brian Santos says the key to testing paint samples is in the light. Read more in his new book, "Painting Secrets."
From Painting Secrets from Brian Santos The Wall Wizard


Author Brian Santos
Q. What is the best way to try a color before you paint, and why does paint sometimes look different from the paint chips?
Brian Santos: You probably selected the color by looking at it under a different type or intensity of light than what's in your room. Sunlight, daylight, fluorescent light, halogen light, and incandescent light affect colors differently. So bring the sample card into the room you intend to paint and look at its several times during the day. See how the color looks using different kinds of artificial light before making a final decision.


Quick Tip
To get an even better idea of what the color will look like in your room, purchase a small quantity of the paint and apply it to a white 24-x-30-inch foam-core board. When it's dry, you can move the board around the room, testing the paint in a variety of light conditions. Hold it vertically on the walls to view it. This method also lets you see how furniture and accessories in a room look when positioned against or next to a particular color.
When you've selected your color, cut an 8-1/2-x-11-inch piece from the foam-core board with your final color choice. Keep this sample with you when you shop to make it easier to match items to the paint.

Testimonial

Fantastic. These guys were very thorough & detailed. They were careful not to damage any plants or spill paint inappropriately. I would definitely consider them for other projects & will refer others to your company.

Bill Hambsh 5/26/2009

7 Things to Know About Paint

Good products, good preparation, and proper application are the keys to colors that last.
From Remodel
By Becky Mollenkamp


1. Spend more for quality. The accrued costs of frequent repainting cancel the "savings" you enjoy by buying the cheap stuff. Good-quality paints cost more because they have a higher percentage of titanium dioxide, which determines covering ability, and other additives that increase durability. The heavier bodies of high-end paints help them go on smoother, splatter less, and resist fading.
2. Look at luster. Sheen refers to the degree of shine. Generally, the higher the gloss, the better the finish will stand up to stains, abrasions, and cleaning. Choosing sheen can be a matter of personal preference, but there are some general guidelines to follow. Flat paint is widely used for ceilings but is not a good choice for walls in high-traffic areas. Eggshell works well in bedrooms, living rooms, and hallways where frequent cleaning is not needed. Easier-to-wash satin or semigloss paints are good choices for bathrooms and kitchens. Use high-gloss paints for trim, cabinetry, and doors that are in perfect condition.
3. Choose color wisely. Light colors tend to open up a room, making it seem lighter and more spacious. Dark hues add depth and/or warmth. Use a dark color on a single accent wall to create visual interest without making the room feel smaller. Before painting a room white, pay special attention to how surrounding elements will reflect light and alter the color. For example, red furniture or carpeting may make white walls look pink.
4. Test paint color before you buy. The only way to be certain about a paint color is to see it on the intended surface, surrounded by the room's other elements. Some paint manufacturers now offer larger paint chips, as well as in-store or online programs that virtually paint a digital image of your room. But the best test is to buy quarts or sample sizes of a few colors, paint small sections of a wall, and observe during different lighting conditions.
5. Use the right equipment. Choose brushes with long and dense bristles -- nylon for latex (water-base) paint and natural for oil-base paint. A 2-inch angled sash brush, a 3-inch trim brush, and rollers are enough for most jobs. For rough or textured surfaces, get a roller with a 3/8-inch or thicker nap; for smooth surfaces, use a roller with a nap of 1/4 to 3/8 inch.
6. Determine how much paint you will need. Some manufacturers include calculators on their Web sites to help you figure out how many gallons of paint to buy. You can also use this formula: Add the widths of the walls, multiply that figure by the room's height, and then divide the total by 350 (the square footage that 1 gallon typically covers). This formula doesn't factor in doors and windows, so you should have paint left over for touch-ups.
7. Do the prep work. Paint will cover more uniformly and adhere better to clean, dry, nonglossy surfaces. Scrape off any flaking paint, fill holes with spackling compound, and sand walls. Wipe off sanding dust, and wash dirty walls with a trisodium phosphate solution. Remove switchplates and other hardware, and apply a primer, which helps to conceal stains and ensure uniform color and absorption.