Better Homes & Gardens
By the Sea
Two tones of blue create the feeling of the ocean in this child's room. A wave pattern is a fun take on more traditional wainscot.
Circle Around
A little paint and fun embellishments work wonders without permanency. Paintable wooden rings in white pop out on top of a butter yellow wall, though any color combination could add a vibrant touch, even in an apartment or dorm room.
How to Paint Tile
Give outdated ceramic tile walls a new look by decoratively painting them in colors you love. Enamel crafts paint (available at crafts stores and discount stores that carry crafts supplies) covers well on most tiles.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Monday, March 30, 2009
Refresh Your Space with Paint
Better Homes & Gardens
Patches of Paint
Any room can take on a contemporary feel with this paint idea. Simply mark off squares and rectangles on the wall and fill each with a colorful paint.
Linen Texture Paint Technique
With a simple linen weaver tool, textured linen glaze, and coordinating paint, you can use this technique to reinvent treasured textiles on walls, furniture, doors, and countless other decorative accessories.
Watercolored Wall
Color-washed walls bring movement and drama to a room's vertical surfaces. The technique is simple to master and you can layer on as many tones as you like; the more layers you add, the more interesting the finish.
Patches of Paint
Any room can take on a contemporary feel with this paint idea. Simply mark off squares and rectangles on the wall and fill each with a colorful paint.
Linen Texture Paint Technique
With a simple linen weaver tool, textured linen glaze, and coordinating paint, you can use this technique to reinvent treasured textiles on walls, furniture, doors, and countless other decorative accessories.
Watercolored Wall
Color-washed walls bring movement and drama to a room's vertical surfaces. The technique is simple to master and you can layer on as many tones as you like; the more layers you add, the more interesting the finish.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Color Combos Using Green
Better Homes & Gardens
Shades of Green + Deep Blues
Punch up the monochromatic look by adding a closely related hue. Pairing bold shades of green with deep blue creates a truly harmonious combo.
Color Combo Attitude: Casual
Soft Lime + Teal + White
This soft combo looks brilliant paired with sleek modern furniture and accessories.
Color Combo Attitude: Light and Airy
Kelly Green + Black
Bold kelly green walls and bedding allow the sleek black dresser and frames to pop in this out-of-the ordinary bedroom.
Color Combo Attitude: Eclectic
Shades of Green + Deep Blues
Punch up the monochromatic look by adding a closely related hue. Pairing bold shades of green with deep blue creates a truly harmonious combo.
Color Combo Attitude: Casual
Soft Lime + Teal + White
This soft combo looks brilliant paired with sleek modern furniture and accessories.
Color Combo Attitude: Light and Airy
Kelly Green + Black
Bold kelly green walls and bedding allow the sleek black dresser and frames to pop in this out-of-the ordinary bedroom.
Color Combo Attitude: Eclectic
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Experts' No-Fail Color Schemes
Better Homes & Gardens
Peacock Blue: Bold Look
Designer Celerie Kemble raves over the deep tones of Peacock blue. "The blue hues, from teal to sapphire, are reviving jewel tones and offer a fresh take on navy. If you're after mood, drama, or intimacy, the concentrated color delivers."
Designer Celerie Kemble's Color Tip: Peacock blue looks great with a bevy of modern colors -- apricot, orange, pink, red, and yellow -- and loosens up its regalness. For a more subdued look pair it with grays and browns.
Chocolate Brown: Traditional Chic
"Chocolate Brown may well be the breakout color of the decade. Once daring, it has emerged as a favorite neutral that's rich and welcoming," says designer Laurie Smith. Here, soft blue and crisp white furniture give this room a classic look.
Designer Laurie Smith's Color Tip: Consider high-contrast combinations, such as brown with whites and creams. It creates a graphic quality and allows furniture to really strike a silhouette.
Chocolate Brown: One Wall Wonder
The minimalist approach to this dining room keeps the rich brown wall the center of attention.
Designer Laurie Smith's Color Tip: Less is more. Brown on all four walls can make a room look cavernous. Unless the room gets a lot of natural light or has high ceilings, use the color only as an accent wall.
Peacock Blue: Bold Look
Designer Celerie Kemble raves over the deep tones of Peacock blue. "The blue hues, from teal to sapphire, are reviving jewel tones and offer a fresh take on navy. If you're after mood, drama, or intimacy, the concentrated color delivers."
Designer Celerie Kemble's Color Tip: Peacock blue looks great with a bevy of modern colors -- apricot, orange, pink, red, and yellow -- and loosens up its regalness. For a more subdued look pair it with grays and browns.
Chocolate Brown: Traditional Chic
"Chocolate Brown may well be the breakout color of the decade. Once daring, it has emerged as a favorite neutral that's rich and welcoming," says designer Laurie Smith. Here, soft blue and crisp white furniture give this room a classic look.
Designer Laurie Smith's Color Tip: Consider high-contrast combinations, such as brown with whites and creams. It creates a graphic quality and allows furniture to really strike a silhouette.
Chocolate Brown: One Wall Wonder
The minimalist approach to this dining room keeps the rich brown wall the center of attention.
Designer Laurie Smith's Color Tip: Less is more. Brown on all four walls can make a room look cavernous. Unless the room gets a lot of natural light or has high ceilings, use the color only as an accent wall.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Kitchen Cabinet Wood Choices
Better Homes & Gardens
Medium-Toned Wood
Honey-colored wood cabinets surround a kitchen in warm wood tones. These cabinets also blend well with neutrals including limestone and golden-hued tile and granite.
Light Pine
Knotty pine gets a fresh look with red stone countertops and fully tiled walls. Pine can be a budget-friendly choice for cabinets, though the look can be a bit rustic, due to the unpredictable graining of the wood.
Lightly Speaking
A variety of neutral and pale wood tones can create a light and airy kitchen look. Be sure to anchor with a few deeper tones like the wrought iron chairs and black accents on the stove.
Medium-Toned Wood
Honey-colored wood cabinets surround a kitchen in warm wood tones. These cabinets also blend well with neutrals including limestone and golden-hued tile and granite.
Light Pine
Knotty pine gets a fresh look with red stone countertops and fully tiled walls. Pine can be a budget-friendly choice for cabinets, though the look can be a bit rustic, due to the unpredictable graining of the wood.
Lightly Speaking
A variety of neutral and pale wood tones can create a light and airy kitchen look. Be sure to anchor with a few deeper tones like the wrought iron chairs and black accents on the stove.
Experts' No-Fail Color Schemes
Better Homes & Gardens
Golden Yellow: Multiple Shades
Designer Barry Dixon's favorite hue to use in the home is golden yellow. "Golden yellow is the color I use when want a room to radiate warmth and energy. Its untold shades -- from lemon to honey -- always lift the spirits." In this country-chic kitchen two shades of golden yellow set the fresh vintage feel.
Designer Barry Dixon's Color Tip: "Pair organic yellow colors with stony grays or sandy beiges rather than citrus hues."
Golden Yellow: Classic Combo
Greet guests with a cheery welcome by splashing your entryway in warm golden tones. The subtle wall color paired with the traditional bench creates a timeless look.
Designer Barry Dixon's Color Tip: "Be wary of the strongest yellow. It's going to intensify when it's in a room, especially when the sun shines on it. If you're leaning toward the brightest yellow on a paint chip, go one shade down. For less impact, try an autumnal shade, such as wheat, honey, or amber."
Golden Yellow: Chic Approach
With white walls and furniture, this room highlights the yellow tones used throughout the room. To create a more formal look, shades of gold accent the furniture.
Designer Barry Dixon's Color Tip: Yellows look different depending on the light and the colors around them.
Golden Yellow: Multiple Shades
Designer Barry Dixon's favorite hue to use in the home is golden yellow. "Golden yellow is the color I use when want a room to radiate warmth and energy. Its untold shades -- from lemon to honey -- always lift the spirits." In this country-chic kitchen two shades of golden yellow set the fresh vintage feel.
Designer Barry Dixon's Color Tip: "Pair organic yellow colors with stony grays or sandy beiges rather than citrus hues."
Golden Yellow: Classic Combo
Greet guests with a cheery welcome by splashing your entryway in warm golden tones. The subtle wall color paired with the traditional bench creates a timeless look.
Designer Barry Dixon's Color Tip: "Be wary of the strongest yellow. It's going to intensify when it's in a room, especially when the sun shines on it. If you're leaning toward the brightest yellow on a paint chip, go one shade down. For less impact, try an autumnal shade, such as wheat, honey, or amber."
Golden Yellow: Chic Approach
With white walls and furniture, this room highlights the yellow tones used throughout the room. To create a more formal look, shades of gold accent the furniture.
Designer Barry Dixon's Color Tip: Yellows look different depending on the light and the colors around them.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Kitchen Cabinet Wood Choices
Dark Wood Cabinets
Cabinetry in rich, dark wood tones can give a kitchen a rich, upscale feel. These have clean lines and simple details -- perfect for a contemporary look with a more formal edge.
Dark with Detail
Add warmth to dark wood cabinets by using warm wall colors and details. Pale golden walls and oak flooring add that warmth while a touch of black is a nice balance to the wood.
Contemporary Dark
Distinctive stainless door handles give these dark cabinets a sleek look, while granite countertops and rattan bar stools provide some much-needed contrast.
Cabinetry in rich, dark wood tones can give a kitchen a rich, upscale feel. These have clean lines and simple details -- perfect for a contemporary look with a more formal edge.
Dark with Detail
Add warmth to dark wood cabinets by using warm wall colors and details. Pale golden walls and oak flooring add that warmth while a touch of black is a nice balance to the wood.
Contemporary Dark
Distinctive stainless door handles give these dark cabinets a sleek look, while granite countertops and rattan bar stools provide some much-needed contrast.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Cabinets
White Cabinets
White cabinets are a versatile choice for a kitchen. Though usually available in laminate or thermofoil (which can be difficult to paint over), more expensive custom cabinets can be ordered in a painted white or cream finish with distressed or glazed details.
White cabinets are a versatile choice for a kitchen. Though usually available in laminate or thermofoil (which can be difficult to paint over), more expensive custom cabinets can be ordered in a painted white or cream finish with distressed or glazed details.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Other needful things
Gadgets and time-savers abound, from drip guards to drill-operated paint stirrers to brush and roller spinners. Use your own judgment on these, but here are a few accessories you will be glad you picked up:
Drop cloths save countless hours of cleanup, not to mention saving things that just aren't meant to be painted, such as sofas and carpet.
A tray is must for a roller, but also a good paint holder when using a painting pad.
Unless you enjoy scraping windows, painter's tape should be part of your painting toolbox. Always use painter's tape instead of masking tape. Painter's tape allows you to keep areas covered for up to 3 days. If you let masking tape stick around that long, you'll end up pulling off part of your finish.
For safety and easier painting, the proper step stool or ladder is essential.
An edger or painter's shield is a simple straightedge with a handle that enables you to make clean cut-ins where walls meet ceilings.
Using an extension handle for your roller may be just the trick when you need to extend your reach. Make sure your roller will accept a screw-in extender and that the extender is stiff enough to give you enough leverage to apply the paint.
Drop cloths save countless hours of cleanup, not to mention saving things that just aren't meant to be painted, such as sofas and carpet.
A tray is must for a roller, but also a good paint holder when using a painting pad.
Unless you enjoy scraping windows, painter's tape should be part of your painting toolbox. Always use painter's tape instead of masking tape. Painter's tape allows you to keep areas covered for up to 3 days. If you let masking tape stick around that long, you'll end up pulling off part of your finish.
For safety and easier painting, the proper step stool or ladder is essential.
An edger or painter's shield is a simple straightedge with a handle that enables you to make clean cut-ins where walls meet ceilings.
Using an extension handle for your roller may be just the trick when you need to extend your reach. Make sure your roller will accept a screw-in extender and that the extender is stiff enough to give you enough leverage to apply the paint.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Powered Painters and Sprayers
Power painters are available in gas-powered, electric or cordless models.
Professionals use compressed air systems.
Airless units are the most common for the do-it yourselfer. In an airless model, the paint is pumped to the applicator, eliminating the need to reach to a bucket or tray to reload.
Applicators are available in various sizes and types of brushes, rollers, and the spray nozzle type.
Power rollers offer fingertip control of the paint supply. Once you get the hang of it, they can cover a room quickly.
Sprayers offer the best coverage, but expect more wasted paint than with a hand- powered paint applicator. Sprayed paint will dry quickly. Because of the small opening, spray nozzles can clog. When you're finished, there will be a lot of parts to clean.
Professionals use compressed air systems.
Airless units are the most common for the do-it yourselfer. In an airless model, the paint is pumped to the applicator, eliminating the need to reach to a bucket or tray to reload.
Applicators are available in various sizes and types of brushes, rollers, and the spray nozzle type.
Power rollers offer fingertip control of the paint supply. Once you get the hang of it, they can cover a room quickly.
Sprayers offer the best coverage, but expect more wasted paint than with a hand- powered paint applicator. Sprayed paint will dry quickly. Because of the small opening, spray nozzles can clog. When you're finished, there will be a lot of parts to clean.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Pads
Pad and sponge painters are made in a variety of shapes and sizes. Pads can be useful in tight spots; however, they hold less paint than conventional brushes and rollers.
Painting strokes must be all in one direction. Never paint back over the just-painted area.
Pads can be washable or disposable. It's also a good idea to use a tray when painting with pads.
Painting strokes must be all in one direction. Never paint back over the just-painted area.
Pads can be washable or disposable. It's also a good idea to use a tray when painting with pads.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Rollers
Rollers are the tools of choice when you have a large area to cover. Rollers will use more paint than a brush. Ceilings and interior/exterior walls can be covered with much less time and effort, but as with brushes, you must choose the correct type.
Rollers are also available in two categories:
Natural - Oil-based paints work best with natural materials, such as mohair or lambswool.
Synthetic — these rollers are made of nylon, polyester, or a combination. Use with water-based paints.
For latex paint, use synthetic materials only. Natural material is too absorbent to use with latex paint. Either synthetic or natural material can be used with oil-based or alkyd paints. It is always a good idea to check the manufacturers' recommendations before purchasing.
Nap (or pile) is the length of the roller's painting surface. Lengths will vary from 1/16" to 1 1/2". Choose the correct nap for the paint job. If you're painting a smooth surface, choose a short napped roller. For a rough surface such as masonry, use a longer nap. Rollers with textured surfaces are also available for special fashion finishes.
Rollers come in widths from 4 to 18 inches. The metal frame for the roller cover comes in two types — birdcage and metal. The birdcage frame works better if you're using fast-drying paints, as it cleans up more easily than the solid-metal type. Most handles are made for attaching an extension.
Trim rollers come in varying shapes and sizes. Cone-shaped types work well in inside corners. Doughnut-style rollers paint moldings and other fine work.
When purchasing a quality roller:
Look for beveled edges on the roller for a smooth finish.
Check to make sure the roller has no visible seams.
Give it a squeeze — it should rebound to its original shape.
Roller tips
Moisten before use with water or thinner to prevent paint from drying on the roller.
Load the roller with paint from the slanted edge of the tray to prevent overloading.
Paint in shape of the letter M. Start by moving the roller away from you. Without lifting the roller from the wall, fill in the open space.
Don't try to paint too quickly.
To clean a roller cover, roll it back and forth on newspaper. Remove paint with the proper thinner. If you're rinsing out solvent-based paint, wear rubber gloves. Let it dry before storing.
Disposable rollers are available. If you don't plan on repainting soon, you may want to use these to avoid cleanup (especially when using oil-based paint).
Rollers are also available in two categories:
Natural - Oil-based paints work best with natural materials, such as mohair or lambswool.
Synthetic — these rollers are made of nylon, polyester, or a combination. Use with water-based paints.
For latex paint, use synthetic materials only. Natural material is too absorbent to use with latex paint. Either synthetic or natural material can be used with oil-based or alkyd paints. It is always a good idea to check the manufacturers' recommendations before purchasing.
Nap (or pile) is the length of the roller's painting surface. Lengths will vary from 1/16" to 1 1/2". Choose the correct nap for the paint job. If you're painting a smooth surface, choose a short napped roller. For a rough surface such as masonry, use a longer nap. Rollers with textured surfaces are also available for special fashion finishes.
Rollers come in widths from 4 to 18 inches. The metal frame for the roller cover comes in two types — birdcage and metal. The birdcage frame works better if you're using fast-drying paints, as it cleans up more easily than the solid-metal type. Most handles are made for attaching an extension.
Trim rollers come in varying shapes and sizes. Cone-shaped types work well in inside corners. Doughnut-style rollers paint moldings and other fine work.
When purchasing a quality roller:
Look for beveled edges on the roller for a smooth finish.
Check to make sure the roller has no visible seams.
Give it a squeeze — it should rebound to its original shape.
Roller tips
Moisten before use with water or thinner to prevent paint from drying on the roller.
Load the roller with paint from the slanted edge of the tray to prevent overloading.
Paint in shape of the letter M. Start by moving the roller away from you. Without lifting the roller from the wall, fill in the open space.
Don't try to paint too quickly.
To clean a roller cover, roll it back and forth on newspaper. Remove paint with the proper thinner. If you're rinsing out solvent-based paint, wear rubber gloves. Let it dry before storing.
Disposable rollers are available. If you don't plan on repainting soon, you may want to use these to avoid cleanup (especially when using oil-based paint).
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Guide to Paint Applicators
Lowes.com
Painting can be a chore, but with the right applicator, the job is a breeze. Choose from brushes, rollers, paint pads, and sprayers.
Brushes
The brush is the most popular paint applicator. Brushes are easy to hold and relatively easy to clean. If used and cared for properly, they give an excellent finish and waste less paint. A quality brush can last for years.
Brushes are available in two categories:
Natural bristle brushes are made with animal hair. Hog hair is regarded as best. Use with oil-based or alkyd paint. Clean brushes with paint thinner.
Synthetic brushes are made from nylon, polyester or a combination. They can be used with oil or latex paint. Clean brushes with mineral spirits (oil) or water (latex).
For latex paint, use synthetic bristle brushes only. Natural bristle is too absorbent to use with latex paint. Either synthetic or natural bristle can be used with oil-based or alkyd paints. It is always a good idea to check the manufacturers' recommendations before purchasing.
You can accomplish most paint jobs with a larger 4" brush for coverage and a smaller 2" brush for trim work and cutting in around corners.
A smooth finish depends on the bristles. When purchasing a quality paintbrush:
Inspect the tips of the bristles. A good natural-bristle brush is flagged, having split ends on the tips. The good synthetic ones have fuzzy-looking tips.
Look to see if the bristles are trimmed to a tapered chisel-shaped end, not flat.
Tap the ferrule (the aluminum or stainless steel band) and make sure that no bristles will fall out. The ferrule should be tightly wrapped and secured around the brush handle. Cheap brushes will lose their bristles. A rusty ferrule can also discolor paint if dipped into the can.
Handle styles will vary — from wider sizes to fit palms to small pencil-sized ones for precision work.
Disposable brushes are an inexpensive alternative that can be discarded after the job is done, eliminating clean up. Keep in mind that cheaper brushes will lose their bristles faster, marring an otherwise perfect finish.
Brush tips:
Dampen a synthetic brush before use. Paint will be less likely to dry on the brush.
Don't overload a brush with paint. The application will be smoother and less wasteful.
Paint with the brush at 45-degree angle to maximize the bristle's surface area.
For a better finish, paint from the area just painted towards the unpainted area. Painters call this "wet to dry".
Dip the bristles one-third of the way into the paint; any deeper will waste paint. Tap the side of the brush on the inside of the can to remove excess paint.
If you need to stop for an hour or so, position the brush in the paint to cover the bristle tips. For longer interruptions, wrap the brush in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and put it in the freezer for oil-based paints. If you're using latex, the refrigerator will be fine. Before cleaning, remove remaining paint by stroking the brush back and forth on newspaper. Before storing, remove paint with the proper thinner
Painting can be a chore, but with the right applicator, the job is a breeze. Choose from brushes, rollers, paint pads, and sprayers.
Brushes
The brush is the most popular paint applicator. Brushes are easy to hold and relatively easy to clean. If used and cared for properly, they give an excellent finish and waste less paint. A quality brush can last for years.
Brushes are available in two categories:
Natural bristle brushes are made with animal hair. Hog hair is regarded as best. Use with oil-based or alkyd paint. Clean brushes with paint thinner.
Synthetic brushes are made from nylon, polyester or a combination. They can be used with oil or latex paint. Clean brushes with mineral spirits (oil) or water (latex).
For latex paint, use synthetic bristle brushes only. Natural bristle is too absorbent to use with latex paint. Either synthetic or natural bristle can be used with oil-based or alkyd paints. It is always a good idea to check the manufacturers' recommendations before purchasing.
You can accomplish most paint jobs with a larger 4" brush for coverage and a smaller 2" brush for trim work and cutting in around corners.
A smooth finish depends on the bristles. When purchasing a quality paintbrush:
Inspect the tips of the bristles. A good natural-bristle brush is flagged, having split ends on the tips. The good synthetic ones have fuzzy-looking tips.
Look to see if the bristles are trimmed to a tapered chisel-shaped end, not flat.
Tap the ferrule (the aluminum or stainless steel band) and make sure that no bristles will fall out. The ferrule should be tightly wrapped and secured around the brush handle. Cheap brushes will lose their bristles. A rusty ferrule can also discolor paint if dipped into the can.
Handle styles will vary — from wider sizes to fit palms to small pencil-sized ones for precision work.
Disposable brushes are an inexpensive alternative that can be discarded after the job is done, eliminating clean up. Keep in mind that cheaper brushes will lose their bristles faster, marring an otherwise perfect finish.
Brush tips:
Dampen a synthetic brush before use. Paint will be less likely to dry on the brush.
Don't overload a brush with paint. The application will be smoother and less wasteful.
Paint with the brush at 45-degree angle to maximize the bristle's surface area.
For a better finish, paint from the area just painted towards the unpainted area. Painters call this "wet to dry".
Dip the bristles one-third of the way into the paint; any deeper will waste paint. Tap the side of the brush on the inside of the can to remove excess paint.
If you need to stop for an hour or so, position the brush in the paint to cover the bristle tips. For longer interruptions, wrap the brush in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and put it in the freezer for oil-based paints. If you're using latex, the refrigerator will be fine. Before cleaning, remove remaining paint by stroking the brush back and forth on newspaper. Before storing, remove paint with the proper thinner
Monday, March 9, 2009
Friday, March 6, 2009
Safety & Clean Up
Safety
Wear appropriate protection while preparing the surface, while staining and while cleaning up. Make sure you exercise safety while on a ladder. Exterior stain is exactly that - DO NOT use it for any interior projects.
Clean Up
Clean up as you would latex or oil-based paints. Use water for latex and paint thinner or solvent for oil-based products.
Safety Note: Oil-based stains are flammable. Use caution when mixing, applying and storing.
Wear appropriate protection while preparing the surface, while staining and while cleaning up. Make sure you exercise safety while on a ladder. Exterior stain is exactly that - DO NOT use it for any interior projects.
Clean Up
Clean up as you would latex or oil-based paints. Use water for latex and paint thinner or solvent for oil-based products.
Safety Note: Oil-based stains are flammable. Use caution when mixing, applying and storing.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Important Things to Remember
Stain absorbs and dries much more quickly than paint.
Stain pigments settle more quickly than paint. Make sure stain is well-mixed prior to starting. Stop and mix the stain regularly while applying.
Apply stain in the direction of the wood grain.
Lap marks don't show up until the stain dries. Avoid them by brushing back from dry to wet. Work in small areas and do not stop in the middle of a wall.
Apply stain when the weather is agreeable. The best temperature is about 70° F. 50-90° F is the optimum working range. Wait for a day with low humidity and avoid staining in the direct sun.
Stain lapped siding from left to right, top to bottom. Stain vertical siding top to bottom. Either way, finish a section completely before moving on.
Work above the ladder to avoid marring the newly applied finish.
If you have some stain left over, do not use it to touch up the deck. Some stains formulated for siding are not suitable for flooring. Make sure you get a stain made for decks. The label should tell you if the product is suitable for vertical or horizontal surfaces.
Two coats may be required if the new stain is darker than the old.
Stain dries in 24-48 hours depending on house conditions and weather
Stain pigments settle more quickly than paint. Make sure stain is well-mixed prior to starting. Stop and mix the stain regularly while applying.
Apply stain in the direction of the wood grain.
Lap marks don't show up until the stain dries. Avoid them by brushing back from dry to wet. Work in small areas and do not stop in the middle of a wall.
Apply stain when the weather is agreeable. The best temperature is about 70° F. 50-90° F is the optimum working range. Wait for a day with low humidity and avoid staining in the direct sun.
Stain lapped siding from left to right, top to bottom. Stain vertical siding top to bottom. Either way, finish a section completely before moving on.
Work above the ladder to avoid marring the newly applied finish.
If you have some stain left over, do not use it to touch up the deck. Some stains formulated for siding are not suitable for flooring. Make sure you get a stain made for decks. The label should tell you if the product is suitable for vertical or horizontal surfaces.
Two coats may be required if the new stain is darker than the old.
Stain dries in 24-48 hours depending on house conditions and weather
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Applying Stain
Use the same basic tools as when painting. Use the right brush - natural bristle for oil, synthetic for latex. Stain brushes are wider than paint brushes, with shorter bristles. These brushes drip less than a regular paint brush. Get the best brush you can. It is a good idea to test the stain on a hidden or inconspicuous area just to be sure it is the color that you want.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Preparing the Surface
Surface preparation is critical to a successful exterior stain project:
Repair or replace old or damaged areas.
Caulk around doors and windows.
Patch holes in wood with wood filler.
Use drop cloths to protect plants, sidewalks and decks.
Remove dirt by washing with soap and water.
Remove mildew with a commercial mildewcide or use a solution of three quarts water to one quart chlorine bleach. Wet the siding with the bleach solution and allow it to remain on the siding for about half an hour. (If you are not sure whether the stain is dirt or mildew, put a drop of household bleach on the spot. If it lightens in 1-2 minutes, it is mildew.)
Scrub the surface with a soft brush.
Rinse thoroughly.
Wear protective clothing and eye protection when using cleaning chemicals.
Repair or replace old or damaged areas.
Caulk around doors and windows.
Patch holes in wood with wood filler.
Use drop cloths to protect plants, sidewalks and decks.
Remove dirt by washing with soap and water.
Remove mildew with a commercial mildewcide or use a solution of three quarts water to one quart chlorine bleach. Wet the siding with the bleach solution and allow it to remain on the siding for about half an hour. (If you are not sure whether the stain is dirt or mildew, put a drop of household bleach on the spot. If it lightens in 1-2 minutes, it is mildew.)
Scrub the surface with a soft brush.
Rinse thoroughly.
Wear protective clothing and eye protection when using cleaning chemicals.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Estimating Stain
When calculating the correct amount, remember that stain is different than paint. For estimating purposes plan on approximately one gallon of stain to cover 200 sq. ft. (as opposed to 400 sq. ft. for paint). In addition, rougher surfaces will require more stain than smooth ones. Bare wood needs more than a re-stained surface. Know your surface measurements when you go shopping and read the label for the manufacturer's recommendations.
Lowes.com
Lowes.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
